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IN PARIS 

A HANDBOOK FOR VISITORS TO PARIS 
IN THE YEAR 1900 




THE APSE OF NOTRE DA 



ME. 



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IN PARIS 

A Handbook for Visitors to Paris 
in the Year igoo 






Katharine S. and Gilbert S. MacQuoid 



With Twelve Illustrations by 

Thomas R. MacQuoid, R. I. 

And Two Maps 




BOSTON 
L. C. PAGE l3' COMPANY 

MDCCCC 



34680 



-j)C'7^2 



Librax-y of (>on 

Two Copies ^fi. 



to 



AUG 151900 

Copyright entry 

SECOND COPY. 

Delivered to 

ORDER DIVISION, 
■^FP 1 1900 



Copyright, igoo 

By L. C. Page & Company 

(incorporated) 



All rights reserved 



M2 



ffiolonfal ^rf00 

Electrotyped and Printed by C. H. Sin:ionds &, Co. 
Boston, U. S. A. 






^7 



0— 






TO OUR DEAR FRIEND 

THE REV. EDWARD HUNTINGFORD, D.C.L. 

HON. CANON OF WINCHESTBR 



NOTE 

This little book only touches on a few of the more 
notable buildings and scenes in and around Paris. It 
is chiefly intended for those to whom the French 
capital is unknown, and who have but a short time 
to spend there. The book is not in any way a com- 
plete guide to the wonderful cosmopolitan city. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. From London to Paris by Newhaven and 



Dieppe . . . . 

II. Hotels, Restaurants, etc., in Paris . 

III. The Seine, its Bridges and Principal 

Islands . . . . 

IV. The Ile de la Cit^ . , , 

V. Some of the Churches 

VI. The Louvre and the Tuileries — the Hotel 
DE Ville— Luxembourg, and others 

VI I. The Streets and the Boulevards 

VI 1 1. Theatres and Amusements . 

IX. The Arc de l' Etoile— Bois de Boulogne — 
St. Denis— Vincennes 

X. Asnieres— St. Cloud — Versailles 

XL The Chateau and Forest of Fontainebleau 

XII. The Universal Exhibition of 1900 

Index e « ?> 



9 
20 

32 
41 
51 

59 
70 

79 

86 

98 

105 

115 

I2S 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Drawn by Thomas R. Macquoid, r.i. 



1. The Apse of Notre Dame -, 

2. St. Jacques, Dieppe . , 

3. Some Bridges on the Seine 

4. Part of Front of the House Fran9ois Premier 

5. Le Pont Neuf . 

6. La Sainte Chapelle 

7. Le Palais de Justice, le Pont au Change 

8. Le Boulevard de la Madeleine 

9. La Fontaine Moliere . . 

10. Le Lac Inferieur, Bois de Boulogne 

11. In the Forest of Fontainebleau 

12. The Great Exhibition : Part of Frieze, Grand 

Palais des Beaux Arts — The Ancient 
Workman . . . • 

Sketch Map of Paris, at beginning of book. 
Sketch Map of Exhibition, at end of book. 



Frontispiece 
To face page 14 
32 
34 
38 
47 
51 
73 
78 

91 
112 



121 



IN PARIS 



CHAPTER I. 

FROM LONDON TO PARIS BY NEWHAVEN 
AND DIEPPE 

FRENCHMEN, and more especially Parisians, 
can do some things better than any other 
people can do them, and among these things is a 
Great or Universal Exhibition. The good people 
of Paris have a native talent for these gigantic 
shows. Their strong artistic faculty, their industry 
and taste, their resource and ingenuity, added to 
their instinctive sense of, and their cleverness in 
developing, magnificent effects, — all these faculties 
help to crown with success such an undertaking as 
a Universal Exhibition. 

Except in rainy weather, Paris is always gay and 
fascinating, and it attracts the eyes of all other 
nations, sometimes in admiring wonder, sometimes in 
fear and apprehension for the peace of the world. 

In this year 1900 the cosmopolitan city invites us 
all the world over, to visit her enormous Universal 
Exhibition, which for spaciousness, variety, and 



lo IN PARIS 

magnificence, will surpass every show of this descrip- 
tion which she has ever before provided. 

If peace prevails among the nations, this great 
Exhibition of 1900 should prove an unbounded 
success; and it will make Paris, for that time, the 
great centre for all who are interested in artistic 
display or scientific progress. 

Our brilliant, witty, paradoxical, and excitable 
neighbours will this year more than ever attract all 
eyes towards their seductive capital ; and people on 
pleasure bent, from the British Isles, trusting in the 
proverbial welcome given them by the French nation, 
will travel in countless numbers to see this marvellous 
Exhibition, and the beautiful city in which it stands. 
Without doubt, very many persons will this year go 
for the first time to Paris ; and this little book has 
been written chiefly to give new visitors some idea 
of the truly wonderful city, and of several of her 
surroundings. 

And first the intending traveller asks, "Which is 
the best way of reaching the gay city?" 

For those who do not object to a little extra sea, 
the shortest route from London, the cheapest, and 
the most interesting, is that by the London, Brighton, 
and South Coast Railway, via Newhaven, Dieppe, 
and Rouen. 

The services via Newhaven and Dieppe have 
during recent years been entirely rearranged, and 
now a fast train leaves Victoria and London Bridge 
Stations every morning at 10 a.m. for Newhaven 
Harbour. 

When we arrived beside the harbour quay we 



LONDON TO PARIS ii 

stepped from the railway carriage on to the deck 
of the roomy and luxuriously fitted steamer, the 
Stissex, built by Denny of Dumbarton, which started 
for Dieppe as soon as the luggage was on board, 
and arrived there in about three hours and a quarter. 
The deck cabins on the Sussex are delightful, so airy 
and thoroughly well-fitted ; they enable even an 
invalid to cross the Channel in comfort. The whole 
journey is most enjoyable, and the view from the 
steamer of the coast and town of Dieppe is worth 
going to see. 

At Dieppe the Paris train is waiting close to the 
landing-place at the new quay station, built specially 
for the Paris Exhibition traffic ; the train is timed to 
start soon after 3.30 p.m., and to reach Paris at a 
few minutes before 7 p.m., so that the whole journey 
is now made from London in less than nine hours. 

The night service leaves Victoria at 8.50 p.m., and 
London Bridge at 9 p.m., arriving in Paris at 7.15 
the following morning. The day service carries only 
first and second class passengers ; the night boats 
have also a third class service. Fares from London 
to Paris are: first class, single, £1 14s. yd.; second, 
£1 5^-. yd.; third, iSs. yd.; return tickets, available 
for one month, first class, £2 i8s. 3^. ; second, 
£2 2s. $d. ; third, £1 ly. ^d. ; and during the period 
of the Exhibition return tickets will be issued every 
Friday and Saturday night, available for fourteen 
days, at the following fares : first class, £i igs. ^d. ; 
second, £1 los. $d. ; third, £1 6s. 

The entire distance by this route is just under 
250 miles, and besides being the shortest way, the 



[2 IN PARIS 

land journey on the French side is far more attrac- 
tive than that by way of Calais or Boulogne. 

What an amusing change it is, after the dull and 
staid London stations, to arrive, during the travelling 
season, at sparkling, bustling Dieppe ! How excited 
and vociferous are the facteurs and men in blouses 
on the quay, as the steamer gradually comes to rest 
beside it ! What a chattering and screaming ! and 
sometimes the attempts to throw a line on board 
are rather wild. 

We land, and are marshalled to the large room 
on the quay, between the steamer and the railway 
carriages ; for here our hand packages must be marked 
with chalk by the military-looking custom-house 
officers, aided by a brown-faced elderly dame in 
black. How eager the passengers look as they 
struggle forward to get first chance ! and how polite 
are the officials, especially when one of them depre- 
catingly suggests that suoh or such a bag should 
be opened : but the search is over in a minute, and 
the contents are felt with a skilful and delicate touch. 
There is no need to be either eager or anxious ; every- 
one has his or her turn, and the train never starts until 
all its passengers are safe in their carriages. Those 
who are going on to Paris have, of course, registered 
their luggage to that city, and it will not be examined 
till the train arrives there. If, however, we mean to 
stay a day or so in Dieppe we must pass on into 
another large room, where trunks, bicycles, etc., are 
passed by the officials. And then, when we seat 
ourselves in the train, drawn up beside the quay, we 
look out of the further windows, and get fresh enter- 



LONDON TO PARIS 13 

tainment. Bronzed, merry-faced girls clamber up 
the carriage steps and, rapping at the windows if 
they are up, show us baskets filled with fine fruit — 
grapes, peaches, and pears. Boys, grinning from ear 
to ear, and full of excitement, offer all sorts of 
amusing newspapers with coloured illustrations. 
Passers-by pause in their walk — for the train starts 
through a street — to watch the arrivals from 
England. The whole scene is full of gaiety, colour, 
and brightness. 

At last, after various squeaks, horn-blowings, and 
whistles, the train slowly starts on its way through 
the lively town ; there is much waving of hats and 
hands, a screaming of au revoir, and in a few minutes 
we find ourselves steaming along between the grace- 
ful silver birch trees, the green meadows, the grazing 
cattle, and fruit-laden orchards of Normandy. 

Those travellers who can spare a few days will find 
a short stay in Dieppe, in the season, both interest- 
ing and amusing. The large hotels on the Plage, 
such as the " Royal," the " Frangais," the " Metropole 
et des Bains," and the " Grand," are expensive but 
comfortable ; more reasonable quarters can be found 
if the traveller avoids the sea frontage. The Hotel 
du Commerce is really good and moderate in tariff, 
the only disadvantage being its position on the 
Place Nationale, where a large and thronged market 
is held twice a week, and a small one every day. 
Now, though a French market is extremely pictur- 
esque and amusing, it is also very noisy, and it begins 
very early. The Hotel de Paris, near the theatre, 
is rather more expensive than the " Commerce," 



14 IN PARIS 

but it is cheaper than any of the large hotels on 
the Plage. The " Soleil d'Or " is also inexpensive, 
and is quietly situated at the beginning of the Rouen 
road ; there is also the " Chariot d'Or " in the High 
Street. 

The Casino and Bathing Establishment of Dieppe 
are on a large scale. The Casino is about the finest 
on the coast. The bathing is good and safe, for 
it is not allowed when there would be any risk 
attending it. When bathing is permitted, a flag 
flies from a tall pole, and if one does not bathe it 
is extremely amusing on a fine summer's day to 
watch the crowd of bathers. The massive castle 
with its picturesque brick tower, once a chapel, 
looks down on the town from a cliff near the 
Casino. The original castle was built by Charle- 
magne, but this one has interesting associations. 
The famous merchant Ango, when ruined and 
broken-hearted, died here. Here, too, Henri Quatre 
took refuge during the wars of the League. It 
is interesting to remember that till the time of 
Richard the Lion- Heart, Dieppe belonged to the 
English. Our warlike king had, however, determined 
to build Chateau Gaillard on the rock near Les 
Andelys, south of Rouen, and he persuaded Philip 
Augustus to cede him this rock on which to build 
his "saucy castle" in exchange for the town of 
Dieppe. 

On the Place Nationale is a statue of the famous 
Admiral Duquesne, a native of Dieppe, and at one 
end stands the cathedral church of St. Jacques. This 
is a striking and picturesque building in various styles, 




ST. JACQUES, DIEPPE. 



LONDON TO PARIS 15 

from the twelfth to the sixteenth century. From 
the Place Nationale we come to the Quai Duquesne 
and to the fish-market, a special feature of Dieppe, 
where every day great quantities of fish — splendid 
turbot, large soles, enormous conger eels, red mullet, 
mackerel, rouget, langouste, scallops, hake, mussels, 
etc. — are sold by auction as they are brought on 
shore from the boats close by. The costume of 
the fishwomen is still characteristic, though the 
famous and picturesque houses of that part of the 
town inhabited by fisher-folk, and called Le PoUet, 
have been almost cleared away to make room for 
modern improvements. Groups of old women sitting 
outside the market with their baskets make a very 
quaint corner. 

When our artist began to sketch one of these old 
dames, a handsome, modern-looking girl came up and 
remonstrated. " Monsieur wastes his time," she said 
coolly ; " he should not paint that ugly old good-for- 
nothing. Draw someone, monsieur, who is younger 
and better-looking — me, for example." 

Thanks to the wanton bombardment of the town 
by the English at the end of the seventeenth century, 
Dieppe contains scarcely any ancient buildings, 
except the grand old castle and the churches of St. 
Jacques and St. Remy. The High Street is quite 
modern, but has many well-filled and tasteful shops ; 
several of them display the terra-cotta figures of 
fisher-folk, and the lovely carved ivory ware for 
which Dieppe has long been noted. There is also 
pretty lace made here. 

Apart from its own attractions Dieppe is a good 



i6 IN PARIS 

centre, and many interesting places lie close at hand. 
The nearest is the pretty little bathing-place of Puys, 
rather more than two miles to the north-east by 
road ; it is nearer by the shore. Puys lies in a 
charming and well-wooded valley; it has a fine hotel, 
but the terms are high. On the cliffs just beyond 
Puys is a very remarkable and perfectly preserved 
formation called le Camp de Cesar, or la Cite des 
Limes. It is spacious, extending to nearly 140 acres ; 
the shape appears to be triangular — two sides formed 
by large mounds and the third side made by the 
waving, precipitous cliff-line ; the whole is covered 
with turf This camp was once supposed to be 
Roman, but is now thought to be the work of the 
Gauls. The coast road beyond Puys is full of charm 
and variety, and leads through the pretty villages of 
Bracquemont and Belle Ville to Berneval ; another 
interesting village and bathing-place, rather more 
than ten kilometres, or six miles, from Dieppe. 

A delightful excursion is to the old Chateau 
dArques, about four miles inland from Dieppe. The 
castle stands on a hill some height above the smiling 
valley of the river Arques ; part of it was built in 
1040 by William of Arques, to whom his nephew the 
Conqueror had given the land. The end of the castle 
nearest the town of Arques, though ruined, has ^till 
some habitable rooms ; this part forms the entrance, 
and was rebuilt in the time of Francis I. The care- 
takers live in what served as the kitchen, and is still 
put to that use. The little chapel is close by. Not 
far from this is a subterranean passage communicating 
with the Castle of Dieppe, and further on is another 



LONDON TO PARIS 17 

underground burrow, said to go as far as the Castle 
of Mesnieres, a distance of about fourteen miles. 
In 1689 the Battle of Arques was fought here 
between Henri Quatre and Mayenne ; Henri having 
4,000 and Mayenne 30,000 men. The round tower, 
with a slender ash tree in its midst, rooted in the 
ruined grey stonework, is called Tour du Canon. 
It is said that from this tower the guns were fired 
which worked such havoc in the ranks of the Leaguers. 
Lodged in the wall close by, may still be seen one 
of the cannon balls fired by Mayenne. On the hill 
across the valley is the column erected in memory of 
this famous battle. 

It is said that owing to its strength and Its in- 
accessible position the Chateau d'Arques was never 
taken by force. At the further end from the entrance 
are considerable remains of the old walls and towers 
built by William of Arques. 

Near the old part, in a cellar, now far underground, 
are skulls and bones of great size, said to be those 
of horses which were killed and eaten about the year 
1053 when the castle was besieged by William Duke 
of Normandy, afterwards the Conqueror. 

To the west of Dieppe a fine bit of up-and-down 
road leads to the pleasant bathing-place of Pourville, 
some three miles along the coast. A mile or two 
beyond this lies the pretty, straggling village of 
Varengeville. Close by is the grand old Manoir 
d'Ango, built by the wealthy ship-owner Jean 
d'Ango, 1530-42, for his country house; his town 
house was in the Rue Ango in Dieppe, where is now the 
college. It was at this great country manoir that Jean 



i8 IN PARIS 

d'Ango entertained Francis I. and other grandees. 
We were shown the long room on the first floor, 
called the Salle des Fetes, where the wealthy 
merchant used to receive his guests. The house 
forms a large quadrangle surrounding a spacious 
court, at one end of which there is a very quaint 
circular dove-house in red brick and flint stone. 

At a corner of the house, at one end of the Salle 
des Fetes, rises a tower up which a winding staircase 
leads to fine views of the surrounding country. We 
were told that Jean dAngo loved to go to the top of 
this tower and watch his ships on the sea outside 
Dieppe ; trees now^ intercept the view of the sea, 
though we fancied that a glimmer of water showed 
among the foliage. Some way beyond the Manoir 
dAngo we saw the exquisitely placed church and 
churchyard of Varengeville. 

Cyclists will find Dieppe and its neighbourhood a 
paradise ; there are, in all directions, miles and miles 
of almost perfect road surfaces, the gradients are 
generally easy, and the country is most interesting, 
while last, but not least, snarling curs are few and far 
between. 

The scenery between Dieppe and Rouen is delight- 
ful, like a pretty bit of England, and yet different ; 
the elms and the birches are slighter and more grace/ 
ful, the trees in the numerous orchards are more 
heavily laden with many-coloured fruit. But as we 
near Rouen the country, though hilly and romantic, 
is disfigured by large factories and tall chimneys ; 
there is, however, one beautiful glimpse of the spires 
and towers of Rouen before the city is reached. 



LONDON TO PARIS 19 

Of course everyone who does not know Rouen 
and who cares at all for mediaeval architecture and 
historic association, should stay a couple of days in 
the old Norman town. No finer Gothic architecture 
is to be found in France than that which exists m 
this most interesting city, so beautifully placed on the 
lovely River Seine. 

Rouen, just under forty miles from Dieppe, is 
reached in little more than an hour. Hotels at 
Rouen are rather expensive ; the Hotel de la Poste 
is about the best. It is impossible here to give any 
adequate idea of Rouen ; it contains so very much 
to interest, especially an English traveller. The 
principal wonders of the town are the exquisitely 
beautiful church of St. Ouen, perhaps the most 
lovely example of fourteenth century Gothic m 
existence ; the grand old cathedral, with its marvel- 
lous rich and picturesque west front, and the remark- 
able Tour de St. Remain ; the little gem of stonework 
called St Maclou; the elaborately and delicately 
sculptured Palais de Justice, late fifteenth century 
work ; the very quaint belfry and gateway called 
Tour de la Grosse Horloge, fourteenth century; there 
is also the grey old Hotel Bourgtheroude with its 
exquisite bas-reliefs in marble, and its elegant 
hexagonal tower. Close by is the Place de la 
Pucelle, where it is popularly supposed that Joan of 
Arc was burned in 143 1 before her English and 
French judges, though the exact spot whe>reon his 
shameful tragedy was enacted '^/'f "^^J' ., I^'" 
there is the delightful walk up to Mont St. Catherine 
and the sumptuously decorated church of Notre 



20 IN PARIS 

Dame du Bon Secours, about two miles out of Rouen. 
The views from this height are very fine, and, as 
dimbing the hill one looks back, the stately city, the 
winding silver-grey river, and beautiful surrounding 
country make exquisite pictures. There is now a 
railway, but the walk is charming. 

From Rouen the distance to Paris is about eighty- 
seven miles, and this is covered by the fast trains in 
little more than two hours. 

Nearly forty miles beyond Rouen is Vernon, an 
interesting town finely placed on the broad Seine in 
the midst of delightful scenery ; there is a handsome 
church here, begun in the twelfth century and finished 
later ; there is also a tower in Vernon said to have 
been built by our King Henry I. 



CHAPTER II. 

HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, ETC., IN PARIS 

As the train rushes towards Paris, if it is bright 
weather, we see the huge city glittering in the sun- 
shine, and as we enter it fresh from England odr 
attention is called to the whiteness and loftiness 
of the houses, the clearness of the air, and the 
general brightness and glare. 

From Dieppe, Le Havre, and Rouen the trains 
run into Paris at the Gare St. Lazare, a vast station 
of considerable architectural pretensions. Close by 



HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS 21 

are the great Boulevard Haussmann, the magnificent 
new Opera House, the famous Boulevards des Capu- 
cines and des Italiens, and the church of the 
Madeleine. 

From Calais and Boulogne the trains arrive at 
the Nord Station, another great and striking building, 
near the Rue de la Fayette, and more than a mile 
to the north-east of the Gare St. Lazare. 

On leaving the train the first thing to do is to 
show bags and other hand packages to the octroi 
men in uniform standing near the doors ; then call 
a cab from among those waiting outside, and note 
its number. The registered luggage must be passed 
before the custom-house officers in the Salle des 
Bagages, and a porter should be secured to take* the 
trunks to the cab ; the said porter's expectations of 
reward will astonish the new-comer. 

As we drive along the crowded, spacious streets 
we are struck by the loftiness and uniformity of the 
houses, the width and straight lines of the chief 
thoroughfares, the tree-bordered boulevards, the 
grand proportions of the public buildings, and the 
vivacity and excitement of the people. There is, 
however, a look of sameness in most of these hand- 
some new streets, and an absence of originality ; the 
picturesque element is wanting in the numerous lines 
of lofty white buildings. Except on the boulevards, 
where the trees in summer give shade and variety, 
the universal glare of white is monotonous and 
trying to the eyes. One longs for an occasional 
relief of red or yellow brickwork. 

Paris must now contain considerably over two 



22 IN PARIS 

millions and a half of people; in 1898 there were 
more than this number. The city stands upon about 
twenty thousand acres of ground. The proportion 
of foreigners in Paris is large ; there are about two 
hundred thousand. 

The area of Paris is not nearly so vast as that of 
London, but the far greater height of Parisian houses, 
and the almost universal custom there of the flat 
system of residence, lodges a proportionately greater 
number of persons in a smaller space. 

Of all European cities Paris is perhaps the best 
off as to ways and means for lodging visitors. 
Hotels, restaurants, and cafes of every description 
abound ; there are besides numerous boarding-houses ; 
flats, rooms, and houses, either furnished or unfur- 
nished, may be hired by the week or month. In 
this year 1900 there will, of course, be increased 
accommodation to house the millions who crowd to 
the Great Exhibition. 

Paris may be considered a healthy place of 
residence ; its drainage system has been most 
thoroughly looked after of recent years ; a visit 
to the sewers is one of the sights of Paris. There 
is a copious supply of water from the Seine, the 
Marne, the Ourcq Canal, and from Artesian wells 
and springs. ^/ 

The range of temperature in Paris is greater than 
it is in London, and extends from over 100° Fahren- 
heit in summer to 14° below zero in winter. The 
mean temperature throughout the year is about 51° 
Fahrenheit. Considerably less rain falls there than in 
London ; the average fall in a year is about 19 J inches 



HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS 23 

About a third of the inhabitants are born in Paris, 
the rest are provincials and foreigners. The city is 
divided into twenty arrondissements, each presided 
over by a mayor, with three or four assistants. It 
used to be said that the streets of Paris were well 
kept, but the city now seems to be behind London 
in this respect. In Paris, the morning sweeping of 
the pavement appears to be the duty of each house- 
holder, though early risers will sometimes see an 
ancient chiffonnier or chiffonniere at work first of all ; 
the municipal authorities have, however, taken over 
this work in consideration of the payment of a tax, 
and for the rest of the day the expense has to be 
borne by the municipality. 

In choosing an hotel the traveller will be guided 
by the size of his purse. The principal hotels, it 
may be said most of those in the fashionable quarter, 
are excellent, but they are also expensive. The 
charges are chiefly governed by situation. In the 
neighbourhood of the great boulevards, the Champs 
Elysees, the Opera House, the Louvre, the good 
hotels are all expensive ; and during the period of 
the Great Exhibition, the hotels near the gigantic 
show will, of course, command extra prices. The 
Grand Hotel, on the Boulevard des Capucines, near 
the Opera ; the Hotel Continental, in the Rue de 
Rivoli, opposite the Tuileries Gardens ; the Hotel du 
Louvre, also in the Rue de Rivoli, and lying between 
the Palais Royal and the Palace of the Louvre ; and, 
more out of the way, the Hotel Moderne, in the 
Place de la Republique, and the Hotel Terminus 
communicating with the Gare St. Lazare; these are 



24 IN PARIS 

all large establishments containing hundreds of rooms, 
where the expense amounts, if meals be taken in the 
hotel, to about 20 francs a day and upwards, accord- 
ing to the position of the bedroom. 

There are several smaller hotels, which are, if 
anything, more expensive : Hotel Windsor, Hotel 
Brighton, Hotel Wagram, and others in the Rue de 
Rivoli; the Hotel Bristol and the Hotel du Rhin in 
the Place Vendome ; the Hotel Mirabeau, in the Rue 
de la Paix. 

In the Champs Elysees there are several English 
hotels : the Imperial Hotel, in the Rue Christophe 
Colomb; the Hotel Campbell, in the Avenue de 
Friedland ; the Palace Hotel in the Avenue des 
Champs Elysees ; the Langham Hotel, in the Rue 
Boccador ; these, also, are expensive. 

The tariff is more moderate at the Hotel Lille et 
d'Albion, in the Rue St. Honore, much resorted to 
by English people, and also English in its menu ; 
the Hotel du Helder, in the street of the same name, 
near the Opera (there is a good restaurant at this 
hotel); the Hotel Louvois, in the Place du Louvois, 
leading out of the Rue de Richelieu. This last is a 
very comfortable and reasonable hotel ; the rooms 
are small, but the situation is quiet and central. At 
ordinary times the expenses at the Louvois amount 
to 14 or 15 francs a day, comprising rooms, meal? 
(in which wine is included), and attendance. We 
can also fully recommend for comfortable rooms and 
attention the little Hotel St. Romain, Nos. 5 and 7 
Rue St. Roch. Here rooms may be had from 3 to 
10 francs a day, according to the floor and size. 



HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS 25 

The position is most central, within a few yards of 
the Rue de Rivoli, and from the front windows one 
has a peep of the Tuileries Gardens at the end of 
the Rue St. Roch. The cooking is good, but the 
salle a manger is very small. 

The tariff is still lower at the Hotel de Paris, in 
the Rue du Faubourg Montmartre ; the Hotel Voltaire, 
on the Quai Voltaire, on the south bank of the Seine, 
opposite the Tuileries ; at the Hotel Britannique, in 
the Avenue Victoria, close to the Hotel de Ville ; at 
the Hotel Villa Beaujon, Rue Balzac ; in the Cite 
Bergere, No. 34 Rue Bergere, the Hotel Bergere is 
said to be very reasonable. At many of the hotels 
wine is included in the price of table d'hote both at 
luncheon, or dejeuner a lafourchette^ and dinner. 

But after all, the best way to manage in Paris, 
both for time and money, is to choose a fairly 
good, but not too cheap, hotel, and then take all 
or nearly all one's meals, except the petit dejeunet 
(of coffee, rolls and butter), at one of the many 
restaurants for which, as well as for its cafes, the gay 
city is especially famous. Hotel-keepers do not, 
as a rule, object to this, as it has become more or 
less a habit, for visitors whose time is limited, to 
take their meals away from their hotel. The visitor 
should always inquire the price of a bedroom and 
the tariff of meals, etc., before making arrangements 
to stay at an hotel ; it is wiser, when possible, to do 
this before leaving England; at any rate, it should 
be done on first arriving at the hotel. The traveller 
should lock the door of his room when he leaves 
it, and either hang his key on tne Key -board, or 



26 IN PARIS 

give it in charge of the porter, or concierge, of his 
hotel. 

The price of furnished lodgings is lower in summer 
than it is in winter. A furnished room may be hired 
in a good situation, in winter, for 80 to 120 francs 
a month ; but on the south side of the Seine, in the 
Quartier Latin, a room can be had at about half 
these prices. Paris is particularly well supplied with 
comestible shops — shops in which the tastefully 
arranged variety of cooked food of every kind is 
enough to provoke an appetite. Cold fowls, ham, 
tongue, lobsters, and collared eel in sparkling heaps 
of aspic jelly, with crystals of ice close by, prawns, 
galantines, and other truffled dishes, cutlets and 
salads, tomatoes and grapes, look very tempting, 
and usually everything is of the best quality. Some 
articles are dearer, some are cheaper, than with us ; 
on the whole, however, food costs less in Paris than 
it does in London. 

So long as the food is uncooked, no one can doubt 
that fish, flesh, and fowl can all be had of better 
quality in England than in France ; but, alas ! 
although our raw material is so good, the most 
dogged Briton will scarcely maintain, with any 
reasonable force of conviction, that as a nation we 
know how to cook the excellent food which; ' our 
country produces (though we very well know how 
to " put it away " when a Frenchman has cooked it) ; 
no, the most patriotic among us cannot truthfully 
affirm that we shine in the science of cookery ; a 
very important science in many ways beyond that 
of mere palate-tickling. Probably wife-beating would 



HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS 27 

be greatly diminished if English wives of the poorer 
class knew how to prepare a well -cooked and 
appetising meal for their hard-working husbands. 
Let us say, the French want more of our raw 
material, and we want to learn their cookery. 

It has been remarked that this art has declined in 
Paris ; but even as it is, it leaves England far behind. 
And these exquisite dishes are not only admirably 
cooked, they are so daintily served. If the traveller 
should be delicate or extra tired, he says overnight 
that XhQ petit dejeufzer is to be sent at such an hour to 
his room. There is rarely an additional charge for 
this, and where there is, it is trifling, for it is a 
Parisian custom. When the waiter comes in with 
the tray, how tempting are the dainty rolls, the 
butter, the fragrant coffee, and excellent milk ! How 
snowy white the napery and serviettes ! 

Breakfast over, we go out into the gay streets, 
glittering with sunshine, and we find plenty to amuse 
us ; the morning flies while we begin to explore the 
city, or betake ourselves to the Great Exhibition ; 
then, between eleven and twelve, appetising odours 
are wafted to us and remind us of our dejeuner a la 
"fourchette. There will certainly be plenty of good 
restaurants in the Exhibition itself; at any rate 
there are plenty in the city. 

At the best restaurants the meals are served a la 
carte, that is to say, the customer orders from the bill 
of fare, or menu, and is charged separately for each 
dish. Leading restaurants of this description are, on 
the great boulevards, the Cafe Anglais and the 
Maison Dore, both on the Boulevard des Italiens 



28 IN PARIS 

(these are very expensive) ; on the Boulevard des 
Capucines there are Restaurant du Grand Hotel, 
Restaurant du Grand Cafe ; on the Boulevard Beau- 
marchais, Restaurant Aux Quatre Sergents ; on the 
Boulevard Poissoniere, Restaurant de France and 
Restaurant Rougemont ; on the Place de la Bourse 
is Champeaux, also expensive ; and up a side street 
near the Capucines, Rue Daunou 22, is a restaurant 
named Vian, which is both good and reasonable in 
price. There are other restaurants where the meals 
are a prix fixe, that is, the price is so much per head 
for the meal, which price often includes wine. If one 
dines or lunches a la carte the portions are so plenti- 
ful that for two persons, unless appetite is large, it is 
better to order only one portion of each dish, and 
share ; by this means a varied meal may be had at 
small expense. One caution may be given here to 
the untravelled Britisher : hors doeuvres, such as 
anchovies, sardines, melon in slices, prawns, radishes, 
butter, etc., are usually offered while the plats, or 
dishes, are preparing ; the frugal-minded traveller 
should beware of these temptations, which are often 
so carelessly offered that they appear to be given in 
with the meal ; but when the bill is presented they 
will, if eaten, be found as items charged for. Besides 
the restaurants of which mention has been niade 
there are very many others, and for those who like 
simple food and dainty cleanliness the Duval Etab- 
lissements de Bouillon, with black and gilded fronts, 
provide excellent meals a la carte at moderate prices. 
These establishments, where all the waitresses are 
respectable-looking women, were begun more than 



HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS 29 

forty years ago in a small way by the butcher Duval ; 
they are now, many of them, roomy, handsomely 
appointed eating - places in many parts of Paris. 
There is a good one 12 and 14 Rue du Havre, 
near the Gare St. Lazare ; others, perhaps better, 
39 Boulevard des Capucines, 29 Boulevard des 
ItalienS; 27 Boulevard de la Madeleine, 31 Avenue 
de rOpera, 194 Rue de Rivoli, loi Boulevard de 
Magenta, and many more ; all are more or less 
good. There are now other Etablissements de 
Bouillon, but the Bouillons Duval are the best. 

Cafes abound everywhere, and most of them 
supply beefsteaks, cutlets, cold meat, and eggs ; 
but cafes proper exist chiefly for the supply of 
drinks, from after dejeuner till all the world goes 
to the theatre, cafe-concert, or some other place 
of amusement in the evening. When we leave 
our restaurant we go and sit outside a cafe, 
say the Cafe de la Regence, opposite the Theatre 
Frangais, celebrated as a resort of chess-players. 
Within, the men sit reading their newspapers, 
while in the background others play billiards; 
at some of the smaller tables they are playing 
dominoes or chess, sometimes cards. The refresh- 
ments drunk at the cafes are coffee, chocolate, occa- 
sionally tea, ices, beer, absinthe, which last is 
diluted by pouring iced water slowly over a lump of 
sugar in a spoon ; this seems a very popular drink in 
the afternoon at what they call the absinthe hour. 
Some of the men at the little tables outside drink 
neat brandy, others Curasao, bitters, chartreuse, 
vermouth, kirsch, menthe or peppermint (which 



30 IN PARIS 

seems popular in many forms), kummel, rum, prunelle. 
Some ladies close by are talking very fast about 
toilettes ; while one of them drinks beer, another 
sucks iced lemonade through straws ; the rest drink 
syrup and water, grenadine made from plums, and 
orgeat, a syrup made from barley flavoured with 
almonds. The numerous brasseries, which are often 
crowded, are chiefly for the supply of beer. 

There are many open wine-shops, but these mostly 
supply the lower classes. There are also cremeries 
for the sale of milk, cream, and butter. One need 
never go thirsty in Paris ; yet, with all these 
facilities, drunkenness is nothing like so frequent 
as it is in London. 

We leave our comfortable shady seat outside the 
cafe, and stroll along till we are forced to stand 
still, fascinated by the window display of a con- 
fectioner ; its dainty-looking pastries, the beauty of 
its fruit and cream tartlets, and their variety must 
be a revelation to anyone who has not before 
travelled abroad. Besides these we see numbers 
of chocolate and delicious sweetmeat shops. French 
chocolate and French fondants are of course world- 
famous. 

Then there are the fruit shops, and these in hot 
weather make one's mouth water ! Such pears ! 
such peaches from Montreuil ! plums and apricots, 
along with huge orange-coloured melons, and refresh- 
ing sweet-water grapes from the neighbourhood of 
Fontainebleau. 

Paris is extremely well provided with every kind 
of shop, and the goods are nearly always tastefully 



(/ 



HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS 31 

displayed in the windows. The two great shopping 
places for ladies are the Grands Magasins du Louvre, 
in the Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Louvre, and the 
Bon Marche in the Rue du Bac, on the south 
side of the Seine, between the Invalides and 
the Luxembourg. Besides these on the Boulevard 
Haussmann we find Les Magasins du Printemps. 

It is said that nearly 2,500 newspapers and 
periodicals are published in Paris. 

Six railways run into or about Paris — the North 
Railway, station near the Boulevard de Magenta 
and the Rue de la Fayette ; the Eastern Railway, 
with two stations — the Gare de I'Est, near the Gare 
du Nord, and the Gare de Vincennes on the Place 
de la Bastille ; the West of France Railway has 
also two stations — the Gare St. Lazare, near the 
Boulevard Haussmann, and the Gare Montparnasse, 
a little south-west of the Luxembourg Gardens ; 
the Orleans Railway, with two stations — the Gare 
d'Orleans on the south side of the Seine, near the 
Austerlitz Bridge, and the Gare du Luxembourg, 
near the Boulevard St. Michel ; the Lyons and 
Mediterranean Railway, with its Gare de Lyon on 
the Boulevard Diderot, not far from the Seine ; and 
the Chemin de Fer de Petite Ceinture, a railway 
which runs right round Paris just inside the forti- 
fications. A new station has been built in the 
Esplanade des Invalides, connecting with the 
Champ de Mars. An excellent general view of 
Paris is to be had from the upper series of seats 
on this Ceinture Railway, which for a very small 
cost takes one round the city in an hour. There 



32 IN PARIS 

are endless omnibuses, many tramway lines, and 
numerous river steamboats. 

Besides all these there are plenty of victorias, 
small open carriages, with seats for two, or for three 
by putting up the small folding seat, which can be 
hired by the drive or by time. The tariff card is 
always within the vehicle. By the drive the fare is 
1 1 francs anywhere within the fortifications, with 
25 centimes as a pourboire for the driver. The 
drivers with the white hats are said to be the best 



CHAPTER III. 

THE SEINE, ITS BRIDGES AND PRINCIPAL 
ISLANDS 

The Seine, as it flows through Paris in a winding, 
irregular semicircle, passes by some seven miles of 
houses. It cuts the fortifications on the south-east 
at Bercy, flows through the central portions of the 
city, and once more cuts the fortifications at Auteuil. 
About thirty bridges cross the Seine within the 
fortifications. 

In seasonable weather a good way of getting a 
general idea of the Seine, its banks, and bridges is" 
to embark on one of the pretty little steamers which 
constantly pass up and down the river laden with 
passengers. 

There are three lines of these steamers ; they 
run Detween Auteuil and Charenton (south-east of 




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THE SEINE 33 

Bercy) ; Auteuil and the Pont d'Austerlitz (north- 
west of Bercy) ; Suresnes (a western suburb of Paris) 
and the Pont Royal. 

We go on board at Auteuil and see the bridge or 
Pont d'Auteuil joining the lines of fortification across 
the river. Auteuil, and Passy north of it, are healthy 
residential districts, and may still be considered 
suburbs, although within the circle of fortifications ; 
they lie between the spacious park called the Bois 
de Boulogne and the Seine. 

The next bridge up the river is the Pont Mirabeau, 
and then the Pont de Grenelle ; after this we pass the 
long, narrow island of the Swans and are at the Pont 
de Passy. We come next to the precincts of the 
Great Exhibition buildings on either bank of the 
stream. 

Close to the river, far above everything on our 
right, is the stupendous Eiffel Tower, erected for the 
Universal Exhibition of 1889. This tower, measur- 
ing 984 feet high, is the tallest existing work of 
man; about 1,000 yards behind it stretches the vast 
Champ de Mars, and on it stand the principal build- 
ings for the Great Exhibition. 

The handsome Pont d'lena, with its four huge 
groups of prancing horses and their tamers, crosses the 
Seine opposite the Eiffel Tower, and leads up through 
gardens to the winged Oriental palace called the 
Trocadero ; this contains a large collection of ancient, 
mediaeval, and modern sculptures, and an ethno- 
graphical museum. The Exhibition buildings now 
stretch almost continuously on both sides of the 
river until we reach- the monumental entrance gate 
c 



34 IN PARIS 

by the Place de la Concorde. Soon after the Pont 
d'lena we pass on the right, behind the Exhibition 
buildings, the Garde Meuble de I'Etat, a museum of 
curios, tapestry, furniture, and bronzes full of artistic 
and historic interest. 

A little further on we reach the Pont de I'Alma, 
named from the victory in the Crimea in 1854, and 
built two years after that event. Close by on the 
right, behind the Quai d'Orsay, are two buildings, a 
military magazine, and a great tobacco manufactory ; 
in the latter it is said about 20,000,000 lbs. of tobacco 
are each year manufactured. 

On the left is the tree-shaded Cours la Reine, and 
at the corner of this and of the Rue Bayard stands 
the beautiful stone Renaissance house, known as 
La Maison de Frangois Premier. It was built by 
the munificent and art-loving King for Diana of 
Poitiers, or for his sister Marguerite, Duchess of 
Alengon, about the year 1527. It is not large, as 
these houses go, but its front facing the Seine is a 
gem ; there is about it a good deal of delicate and 
highly finished sculpture, boys at play, medallions of 
sovereigns and others. Some of the work is said 
to be by Jean Goujon. The house originally stood 
near Fontainebleau, but was bought by a private 
individual, and removed to its present site in 1826. 

Just beyond the Maison Francois Premier, as we^ 
go up the river, is the wide Pont des Invalides. 
Passing under this we have, on the left, the spacious 
new Grand Palais des Beaux-Arts, and the neigh- 
bouring Petit Palais des Beaux-Arts ; they both 
stand on the ground formerly occupied by the huge 




PART OF FRONT OF THE HOUSE FRANCOIS PREMIER. 



THE SEINE 35 

Palais de Tlndustrie, built for the Great Exhibition 
of 1855, and demolished to make way for these two 
new palaces. 

The next bridge is the fine new Pont Alexandre III. 
It will be remembered that this bridge commemorates 
the Czar's visit to Paris in October, 1896; the Paris- 
ians welcomed him with feverish excitement, and he 
then laid the foundation-stone of the bridge. At 
each of the four corners is a winged horse on a lofty 
pedestal ; the bridge will be altogether one of the 
most striking in Paris. The south side of it leads 
to the fine Esplanade des Invalides (another great 
space given up to Exhibition buildings), at the far 
end is the immense Hotel des Invalides, and behind 
it rises the beautiful gilded dome, a prominent feature 
in many a view of the city. 

As soon as we pass the Esplanade des Invalides 
we come, on the right, to the Ministry of Foreign 
Affairs ; next to the house of the President of the 
Chamber of Deputies ; and then to the Chamber of 
Deputies, or Palais Bourbon, the French House of 
Commons. 

Opposite this, the Pont de la Concorde, from 
which there are extended views of many fine build- 
ings, leads to the spacious Place de la Concorde 
(formerly the Place de la Revolution, where the 
guillotine stood), a magnificent open space with its 
fine old Egyptian obelisk and handsome bronze 
fountains in the middle. On the north side of the 
Place de la Concorde' is the imposing Marine 
Ministry, with a similar building just to the west of 
it, now used as a club. Further north, at the end 



36 IN PARIS 

of the Rue Royale, stands the grand church of the 
Madeleine. 

The gardens and fine avenue of the Champs 
Elysees stretch out west of the Place de la Concorde 
away to the monster triumphal arch called the Arc 
de TEtoile. Near the river, at the south-west corner 
of the Place de la Concorde, is now erected the 
richly decorated monumental gate, the principal 
entrance to the Great Exhibition. 

We have passed under the Pont de la Concorde, 
and have on our left the famous Tuileries Gardens, 
and on our right the German Embassy. Next comes 
the Pont de Solferino ; on our right is the Palace 
of the Legion of Honour, and beside it the new 
station of the Orleans Railway. Then comes the 
Pont Royal, and close on our left we see the stately 
Pavilion de Flore, part of the Tuileries Palace, and 
the beginning of the south side of that stupendous 
mass of buildings known as the Tuileries and the 
Louvre ; their north and south sides run parallel with 
the Seine. 

The south end of the Pont Royal leads to the Rue 
du Bac, in which street is the celebrated Bon Marche, 
a large shop for all sorts of articles of dress and 
other things. After the Pont Royal we find the 
Quai Voltaire on our right, and we soon pass below 
the broad Pont du Carrousel leading to the spacious 
Place du Carrousel within the wings of the Tuileries. 
On our left, as we steam along, stretches the south 
side of the new Louvre ; while on the right is the 
great Ecole des Beaux-Arts, founded in the middle 
of the seventeenth century as a school for painters, 



THE SEINE z7 

sculptors, architects, and other students of the fine 
arts. The schools are largely attended, and their 
professors are of great eminence. The present building 
belongs to this century. 

And now we arrive at the Pont des Arts; on the 
left is the beautiful quadrangular old Louvre, and 
from this the bridge leads across the river to the 
dome-crowned Institute of France, a foundation of 
Cardinal Mazarin, and formerly called the College 
Mazarin. It was built at the end of the seventeenth 
century, and stands on ground previously occupied by 
the once famous and picturesque old Tour de Nesle. 

Five academies — literary, artistic, and scientific — 
hold their meetings at the Institute: (i) I'Academie 
Frangaise devotes itself to the French language and 
its orthography ; (2) I'Academie des Inscriptions et 
Belles-Lettres deals with archaeology and ancient 
languages ; (3) I'Academie des Sciences concerns 
itself with questions of natural science and mathe- 
matics ; (4) I'Academie des Beaux-Arts cultivates the 
arts of sculpture, painting, architecture, and music ; 
(5) I'Academie des Sciences Morales et Politiques 
deals with history, philosophy_, and political economy. 

Adjoining the Institute is the spacious Hotel des 
Monnaies, or Mint, built rather more than a hundred 
years ago ; it possesses numerous medals, French 
and other coins of various periods. The workshops 
are interesting, the coin-producing machines are 
worth inspection ; they can strike an immense 
number of coins in one day. 

We have now reached the western point of the 
famous He de la Cite. On our left, close to the 



38 IN PARIS 

bank, and opposite the east side of the old Louvre, 
stands the fine old church of St Germain I'Auxerrois. 
Across the narrow pointed end of the He de la Cite, 
on our right, the fine Pont Neuf stretches over either 
arm of the Seine. This bridge is older and more 
celebrated than any other of the existing bridges in 
Paris, though it has been restored within recent 
years; its erection was begun when Henri III. was 
King, and it was finished in 1604, in the reign of 
Henri Quatre. On its western side is an imposing 
bronze statue of Henri Quatre on horseback. This 
statue was put up by Louis XVHI. in place of a 
previous one destroyed during the Great Revolution. 

The sharp point of the island west of the statue 
has been made into a small public garden, with trees 
and seats. There are various fine views from the 
Pont Neuf of the Seine, its neighbouring palaces, 
and other buildings — the view of the Louvre from 
this bridge is especially noteworthy ; and at midday 
the scene on the Pont Neuf is both busy and varied. 
Passengers and wheel traffic are frequent over either 
arm of the bridge and along the quays ; the steamers 
and other river craft constantly pass up and down ; 
idlers look over either side of the bridge; and en- 
thusiastic men and boys, perpetually,, and to all 
appearance with unvarying non - success, are seen 
diligently fishing at frequent intervals along the 
banks of the muddy water.* 

Our steamer keeps along the north arm of the 

* The stone parapets of the quays on either side of the river just 
here are converted into bookstalls for the sale of old books and 
engravings of all sorts. 



m^^mmmmmmmmmtimi'mmi m mi iii nriim , , l i mnrirnr i ii ii n ii . 1 i j i| 







*S^ 









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THE SEINE 39 

stream, and when we have passed the Pont Neuf 
we see on our right the huge Palais de Justice and 
the old round towers of the Conciergerie with their 
pointed caps. We go under the Pont au Change 
and pass, on our right, the Tribunal de Commerce ; 
close by is the gay Flower Market. Next comes the 
Pont Notre Dame, with the great Hotel Dieu on the 
right ; then the Pont d'Arcole. 

On the right is the splendid old cathedral of 
Notre Dame, but we cannot see it just here from 
the steamer. On our left is that almost perfect 
building the magnificent new Hotel de Ville. On 
the south side of the He de la Cite are the four 
bridges — St. Michel, Petit, au Double, and de 
I'Archeveche. 

After the Pont d'Arcole we see in front of us the 
island of St. Louis, and soon we steam between this 
and the He de la Cite and go beneath the Pont 
St. Louis, which connects the two islands. The 
Morgue is on our right, at the east of the He de la 
Cite. We steam along the arm of the river to the 
south of the He St. Louis, and soon pass the Pont 
de la Tournelle and Pont Sully ; this bridge crosses 
the east corner of the island to the north bank of 
the mainland, and to the Boulevard Henri Quatre, 
which leads straight to the Place de la Bastille. 

In the fifteenth century the isle of St. Louis was 
divided into two islands, the western — opposite Notre 
Dame, called ITle Notre Dame, and the eastern, 
rile aux Vaches ; there was also another island to 
the east, called I'lle des Javiaux, afterwards I'lle 
Louvier, this, about sixty years ago, was joined to 



40 IN PARIS 

the mainland on the north bank. On the north of 
the He St. Louis are the bridges Louis Philippe and 
Marie. 

When we are through the Pont Sully we pass on the 
right the Quai St. Bernard, behind which lie the great 
wine stores, the Halle aux Vins. Just beyond, on 
the right, is the Jardin des Plantes, the principal 
entrance to which is from the Place Valhubert on 
the river bank. The Jardin des Plantes covers some 
seventy- five acres, and consists of botanical and 
zoological gardens, as well as galleries containing 
numerous cases filled with interesting botanical, 
zoological, geological, and comparative anatomical 
specimens. There is here a good collection of living 
animals of various sorts, but the Zoological Gardens 
in London are better in this respect. The fine 
library contains about 150,000 books. 

From the Place Valhubert the Pont d'Austerlitz 
leads across the river to the Place Diderot. 

The big railway station known as the Gare 
d'Orleans (the line for Orleans, Tours, and Bordeaux) 
is on our right as we continue our voyage up the 
Seine. The next bridge is the Pont de Bercy, and 
on our left the immense wine stores of Bercy line the 
river bank for the best part of a mile. 

We go on beneath the Pont de Tolbiac and the. 
Pont National, and leave the ring of fortifications 
behind us. As we advance, on one side are the 
Magasins G^neraux des Vins ; then we come to the 
Pont de Conflans, also called the Pont d'lvry ; and 
in a few minutes we reach the end of our journey. 



THE ILE DE LA CITE 41 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE ILE DE LA CITjfe 

Looking at Paris as it now is, it is difficult to realise 
that when Julius Csesar conquered Gaul, between the 
years 58 and 50 B.C., the great city of to-day was 
the village Lutetia, the chief village of the tribe 
named the Parisii, built on the island in the Sequana, 
or Seine, now know as the He de la Cite, 

In after-years the Roman Csesars and Emperors 
gradually made Lutetia one of their residences ; a 
Roman palace was built on the He de la Cite, and 
it is said that Constantius Chlorus, Caesar and then 
Emperor in Gaul, between the years 292 and 306 A.D., 
built another palace, that now known as the Thermes, 
close to the island of La Cite, on the left bank of 
the Seine. This palace is said to have been used 
as a residence by the emperors and the succeeding 
Prankish kings, until these last built a royal palace 
on the island of La Cite on the site of the Roman 
palace. 

The palace of the Thermes was of great extent, 
but, being much injured by the Northmen, was 
gradually allowed to go to ruin, until at the present 
day the only portion of it that remains consists of 
the ancient baths adjoining the Hotel de Cluny, now 
used as a museum. 

In this palace the Csesar, Julian the Apostate, 



42 IN PARIS 

whether he would or not, is said to have been pro- 
claimed Emperor by the legions of Gaul in the 
year 360 A.D. 

Gibbon, the historian, gives an interesting account 
of Paris, or Lutetia, at about this period. He says 
it was the seat of the winter residence of Julian, and 
was "originally confined to the small island in the 
midst of the river, from whence the inhabitants 
derived a supply of pure and salubrious water. 
The river bathed the foot of the walls, and the 
town was accessible only by two wooden bridges. 
A forest overspread the northern side of the Seine ; 
but on the south, the ground which now bears the 
name of the university, was insensibly covered with 
houses and adorned with a palace and amphitheatre, 
baths, and aqueduct, and a field of Mars for the 
exercise of the Roman troops. . . . The licentiousness 
and corruption of Antioch [where the Emperor was 
in the year 362] recalled to the memory of Julian the 
severe and simple manners of his beloved Lutetia, 
where the amusements of the theatre were unknown 
or despised." 

It appears to have been also in Julian's time that 
a Council called Parisea Civitas was held in Lutetia, 
whence came the name Paris. 

At the end of the fifth century the Frankish Kin^ 
Clovis expelled the Romans, and in the year 508 he 
made Paris his capital. He became a Christian and 
founded the Merovingian Dynasty, which lasted until 
the middle of the eighth century ; then Pepin le Bref 
brought in the Carlovingians, and was succeeded in 
the year y6S by his sons, Charles the Great or Charle- 



THE ILE DE LA CITE 43 

magne, and Carloman. On the death of Carloman, 
three years later, Charlemagne became sole ruler, and 
in the year 800 he was crowned Emperor of the West. 

Nearly two centuries later Hugh Capet began the 
line of the Capetians, and they reigned until the 
House of Valois, in 1328, gave a king to France 
in the person of PhiHp VI. This line of Valois 
continued until the year 1589, when Henri Quatre 
became the first French king of the House of 
Bourbon. This House takes us on to the terrible 
Revolution, in the year 1789, and to the First 
Republic, followed by the First Empire, in the year 
1804, when Napoleon Bonaparte was proclaimed 
Emperor. 

In 1 8 14 came the restoration of the monarchy in 
the person of Louis XVIII. 

The Revolution of 1830 put Louis Philippe of 
the House of Orleans upon the throne. Then fol- 
lowed the Revolution of 1848, and the Second 
Republic; in 1852 came the Second Empire, with 
Napoleon HI. as Emperor. 

In July, 1870, owing to the machinations of 
Bismarck and the vainglorious pride of Napo- 
leon HI., France declared war against Prussia, and 
the consequences, as everybody knows, were most 
disastrous for France. 

In September, 1870, after the Battle of Sedan and 
the surrender of the Emperor Napoleon, the Third 
French Republic was proclaimed. In January, 187 1, 
after a protracted siege, Paris capitulated to the 
Germans, who entered the city in triumph on the 
following first of March. 



44 IN PARIS 

Then came the Communist insurrection ; the siege 
of Paris by the French mob ; and several days of 
savage fighting in the streets, during which the 
beautiful old He el de Ville, the Palace of the 
Tuileries, and mich of the Palais de Justice were 
destroyed by fire ; the column in the Place Vendome 
was thrown down and broken ; various other build- 
ings were either ruined or greatly injured by the 
maddened and brutal mob. 

The Republic has continued to exist with varying 
fortunes under the respective Presidents Thiers, 
Marshal Macmahon, Jules Grevy, Carnot, Casimir 
Perier, Felix Faure, and Loubet. There have been 
during this time nearly forty changes of Ministry ; 
while in the same period of years only nine Cabinets 
have controlled the destinies of Great Britain. 

The He de la Cite was, as has been said, the be- 
ginning of Paris, and for those who admire fine 
architecture and historical association it is still the 
most interesting part of the great city. On this 
small island stand the glorious cathedral of Notre 
Dame, and that miracle of Gothic building, the 
Sainte Chapelle. Here are also the great Palais de 
Justice with the old Conciergerie, and the modern 
buildings of the Hotel Dieu, the Tribunal de Com- 
merce, and the Prefecture de Police, as well as the 
pretty Flower Market, and the gruesome Morgue. 

Taking Notre Dame altogether, there are few 
finer Gothic churches in France, or indeed in Europe. 
The ground on which it stands, close to the Seine, 
is rather sunk, and the great modern buildings near 
the cathedral detract from its grand proportions. 



THE ILE DE LA CITE 45 

The finest and most picturesque view of this noble 
building is that of the apse, and the remarkable 
flying buttresses. 

The cathedral was begun in the year 1161 ; it was 
not finished until the following century ; since then 
it has been altered in many ways. In 1845 its 
restoration was taken in hand by the architects 
VioUet-le-Duc and Boeswillwald. 

The west front is very grand ; the two great 
square towers (would that those of Westminster 
Abbey were as imposing!) rise to a height of more than 
220 feet ; the elegant central fleche, a fine piece 
of modern work designed by Viollet-le-Duc, is more 
than 300 feet in height. 

The fagade was built at the beginning of the 
thirteenth century, and is a grand example of this 
kind of richly ornamented Gothic. The three great, 
deeply recessed portals are lavishly decorated with 
figures and other sculptures. Taking them from 
north to south, they respectively commemorate the 
Virgin Mary, the Last Judgment, and St. Anne. On 
some of the doors there is still the original and 
beautiful old ironwork. The portals of the transepts 
are also fine, and so are the great rose windows 
above them. 

There is much solemn grandeur about the interior. 
It measures some 420 feet in length, more than 
150 feet in width, and about no feet in height. 
The double aisles, which run right round the church, 
add greatly to the beauty and effect ; and the pic- 
turesque intricacy thus created shows to especial 
advantage in the ambulatory, along which one sees 



46 IN PARIS 

arches and columns that, with the numerous chapels, 
present an infinite and deHghtful variety, both of form 
and of effects of light and shade. There is much 
fine stained glass in the three glorious rose windows 
of the north and south transepts, and above the west 
door. The choir contains good wood -carving of the 
seventeenth century. 

This church has a magnificent organ. In the 
treasury there is a fine collection of chalices, cruci- 
fixes, crosses, and vestments. The visitor is also 
shown the robes worn by Napoleon I. at his corona- 
tion in 1804, and the vestments of Archbishop Affre, 
who was shot in the Revolution of 1 848 ; of Arch- 
bishop Darboy, killed during the Commune riots of 
1 871 ; and of Archbishop Sibour, who was murdered 
in the church of St. Etienne-du-Mont in 1857 by a 
former priest. In these vestments are the blood- 
stains and holes made by bullets. The treasury is 
also said to contain the sacred relics King Louis IX. 
(St. Louis) brought from the Holy Land. 

In the south tower is the Bourdon de Notre Dame, 
the huge bell which weighs over 16 tons ; it is more 
than two hundred years old, and its sound is mag- 
nificent. From the top of the north tower there 
is a splendid view of Paris, very comprehensive 
owing to the central position of Notre Dame./ 
From the platform of the roof one sees the enor- 
mous gargoyles, as monstrous as they are eerie- 
looking. Readers of Victor Hugo's Notre Dame de 
Paris will recognise them as old acquaintances. 

The cathedral has passed through terrible vicissf- 
tudes. In 1793, during the Revolution, the National 







LA SAINTE CHAPELLE. 



THE ILE DE LA CITE 47 

Convention doomed the grand old church to destruc- 
tion. Fortunately the decree was not fully executed, 
but the cathedral suffered from the mutilation of its 
statues and other ornaments ; it was barbarously 
handled and profaned ; it was called the " Temple 
of Reason " ; a statue of Liberty was placed above 
the altar ; and every kind of sacrilege was enacted 
within the building. 

Once more, after escaping injury from Prussian 
shells, Notre Dame was seriously threatened in 1871 
by the Communists. They attempted to destroy it 
by fire, but the troops from Versailles succeeded in 
preventing very much injury from being done to the 
noble old pile. 

The kings of France were not crowned at Notre 
Dame de Paris ; their coronations took place in 
Rheims Cathedral. It is curious, however, to note 
that on the 17th December, 143 1, Henry VI. of 
England, then a boy of ten years old, was crowned 
at Notre Dame King of France. In 1804 the Em- 
peror Napoleon I. was crowned at Notre Dame, or 
rather he put the crown on his own head in the 
cathedral, in the presence of the Pope. 

But if Notre Dame is splendid and imposing, 
there is another church on the He de la Cite, 400 or 
500 yards to the west, which surpasses the cathedral 
in beauty — the lovely little building called the Sainte 
Chapelle. It stands in a courtyard of the Palais de 
Justice ; it was formerly the chapel of the old royal 
palace, which stood on this site long before the Palais 
de Justice was erected there. 

The Sainte Chapelle was built in the time of 



48 IN PARIS 

St. Louis, by the architect Pierre de Montereau, 
and was only three years in building, from 1245 to 
1248. It is considered the choicest example extant 
of the purest and most perfect period of Gothic 
architecture. It is said that St. Louis built the 
Sainte Chapelle to contain the holy relics he brought 
from Palestine, which relics, as mentioned before, 
are now stated to be in the treasury of Notre 
Dame. Among them are supposed to be genuine 
thorns from our Lord's crown of thorns and a nail 
from the cross. King Louis is said to have paid 
3,000,000 francs for these relics. 

The building consists of two chapels, one above 
the other, said to correspond in height with the 
floors of the old palace ; the lower chapel being 
intended for the use of the household, and the 
upper church for members of the royal family. 
The lower chapel is richly gilded and painted, but 
the architecture is not especially remarkable. 

The upper church is small in size, but infinite in 
beauty; it is only 115 feet long, 36 feet wide, and 
66 feet high. The fifteen great windows are filled 
with splendid stained glass, chiefly of the thirteenth 
century, but partly restored ; they take up almost 
all the wall space. There is also a fine rose window 
at the west end, but this is of the fifteenth centurj^ 
The walls and roof are gorgeously decorated in fed 
and blue and gold. Outside the west door is a 
number of most interesting old bas - reliefs, on a 
small scale. ViolIet-le-Duc and Lassus helped also 
to restore this gem of Gothic architecture ; the 
beautiful little fleche was designed by Lassus ; the 



THE ILE DE LA CITE 49 

restoration was begun in the reign of the people's 
king, Louis Philippe, and cost ;^5o,ooo. It is a 
pity that the Sainte Chapelle is so surrounded 
by the buildings of the Palais de Justice that it is 
impossible to get a comprehensive view of the 
exterior. This exquisite little church was threatened 
with destruction during the Commune of 1871 ; the 
mob had set the adjoining Palais de Justice on fire, 
and the flames raged all round the Sainte Chapelle^ 
but, almost by a miracle, no harm was done to the 
beautiful little church. 

As already stated, there were two Roman palaces, 
one on the He de la Cite, and the other on the 
mainland on the south side of the river. Not much 
is known about the Roman palace on La Cite, but 
after a time the Frankish kings built a palace on 
its site, and this appears to have been from time 
to time rebuilt and used as a royal palace. Nearly 
all the Palais de Justice, the present building on 
this site, has been erected since the destructive fire 
of 1776. The three circular Gothic towers with 
pointed caps fronting the Seine are part of the old 
Gothic building. In the lovely little adjoining 
shrine of the Sainte Chapelle the " Red Mass " is 
celebrated annually in the la.te autumn on the open- 
ing of the Courts of Justice. You go in to the 
Palais de Justice from the Boulevard du Palais, 
through some fine gilded iron railings, and across 
the spacious courtyard called the Cour du Mai, or 
you can make your way through a glass door near 
the west end of the upper chapel of the Sainte 
Chapelle. This last entrance leads to the Galerie 
D 



50 IN PARIS 

Marchande, and so into the vast Salle des Pas 
Perdus, with its two large vaulted galleries. In 
this great hall the advocates walk up and down in 
their black gowns and square-shaped caps, chatting 
or discussing their cases. Several courts of first 
instance lead out of this hall ; they are rather small, 
and the proceedings seem to be less formal than 
with us in London. To an Englishman the absence 
of wigs among the advocates and judges seems 
strange, though there can be little doubt that it is 
far more strange, if not senseless, to wear these 
extraordinary, fusty remnants of bygone ages. 

To the west of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the 
Galerie des Prisons ; leading out of this on the 
right are the Chambers of the Court of Cassation. 
One of these, the Chambre des Requetes, has a 
richly painted and ornamented ceiling ; and another, 
the grand Chambre Civile, is gorgeously decorated, 
both as to walls and ceiling. There is a great air 
of dignity and repose about this chamber ; the 
solemn-looking judges sit round in the form of a 
horseshoe, but the proceedings, though stately, seem 
dull for lively France. 

This end of the building looks on to the Place 
Dauphine, and has a stately modern fagade, built 
between thirty and forty years ago. Opposite the^ 
Chambre Civile, the Vestibule de Harlay leads to 
the Galerie de la Saintc Chapelle ; halfway along 
this gallery is the Premiere Chambre of the Court 
of Appeal, a large and handsome chamber with a 
fine painted ceiling. 

The Courts of Police Correctionelle lie opposite 



SOME CHURCHES 51 

the Sainte Chapelle, on the south side of the Courtyard 
of that name. The famous old prison, the Con- 
ciergerie, forms the north side of the Palais de Justice, 
close to the Seine. The Conciergerie was filled with 
prisoners during the Great Revolution ; Marie 
Antoinette, Robespierre, and Danton were all con- 
fined there before their execution. 

Opposite to the Palais de Justice is the spacious 
new Prefecture de Police ; and nearer the river the 
recently built Tribunal de Commerce. Behind the 
Tribunal de Commerce lies the great Flower Market, 
a gay and lively scene during its opening hours. 
Further to the east stands the huge modern building 
called the Hotel Dieu, near the site of the old Hotel 
Dieu, originally founded as a hospital in the seventh 
century ; the present building has more than 500 
beds and spreads over several acres of land. 

At the extreme south-east point of the He de la 
Cite is the grim Morgue ; dead bodies found in the 
streets or the river are placed there for identification. 



CHAPTER V. 

SOME OF THE CHURCHES 

Besides Notre Dame and the Sainte Chapelle 
there are many fine churches in Paris, both old and 
modern. St. Germain I'Auxerrois is one of the 
most interesting of the old churches ; it lies opposite 
the east front of the old Louvre on the othe^ 



52 IN PARIS 

side of the Rue du Louvre. The foundation 
appears to have been a very old one reaching 
back to the ninth, if not to the eighth century; 
parts of the present church are of the twelfth, 
thirteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries. The 
fifteenth century porch at the west end is pic- 
turesque ; but the frescoes in this porch have been 
almost obliterated, and there remain scarcely more 
than spots of colour. The interior is imposing, 
though the lowness of the roof rather spoils the 
general effect ; there is some rich modern stained 
glass. It is said that the bell of this church was 
rung on the Eve of St. Bartholomew, 1572, as a 
signal for the fearful massacre of the unwitting 
Huguenots who had been lured into Paris on the 
occasion of the marriage of Henry of Navarre with 
Marguerite de Valois, daughter of Catherine de 
Medicis. A modern tower has been built just north 
of the west end of the church, and beyond the tower 
is a modern Mairie in Renaissance style. 

If from St Germain TAuxerrois we walk to the 
Rue de Rivoli, and turn to the right, we soon come 
to the Boulevard de Sebastopol. On the other side 
of this, on the right of the Rue de Rivoli, is the fine 
old tower of St. Jacques, all that is left of the church 
of St. Jacques de la Boucherie ; the rest of the church^ 
was destroyed at the end of the eighteenth century. 
The tower is about 175 feet high ; it is a rich piece of 
work, and a good example of early sixteenth century 
Gothic ; it has been restored during the present 
century. From tiie top of the tower a particularly 
fine and extensive view of Paris may be had. 



SOME CHURCHES 53 

Let us walk on along the Rue de Rivoli, past 
the magnificent Hotel de Ville, and turn down 
the Place Lobau on the right After a few steps 
we see, as we look eastward, the remarkable old 
church of St. Gervais and St. Protais. The building 
appears to have been begun early in the thirteenth 
century, and to have been partly rebuilt during the 
next century ; various alterations and additions have 
been made since. It contains some sixteenth century 
stained glass, and various other objects of interest, 
including good wood -carving and a painting on 
wood, said to be by Albert Diirer. 

If we retrace our steps along the Rue de Rivoli, and 
turn up the Rue des Halles on the right, just beyond 
the Boulevard de Sebastopol, we shall find the large 
church of St. Eustache, immediately to the north of 
the great Halles Centrales, or principal provision 
market. The building of the present St. Eustache 
was not begun until the year 1532, and the architect 
appears to have attempted to combine the Gothic 
and Renaissance styles, with a not very happy 
result. The church has double aisles, its great 
loftiness gives a grandeur to the interior, it contains 
several remarkable frescoes, and is celebrated for its 
music. 

Walking up northwards we find some interesting 
modern churches. The Rue de Turbigo soon cuts 
across the Rue St. Denis, and this and its continua- 
tion, the Rue du Faubourg St. Denis, take us into the 
Boulevard de Magenta, which in turn leads up across 
the Rue de la Fayette, and then, by the Rue de 
Belzunce, brings us to the imposing church of St 



54 IN PARIS 

Vincent de Paul ; or we may reach the building from 
the Rue de la Fayette, by the Place de la Fayette. 
This church was built between 1824 and 1844, in the 
form of a basilica with Ionic columns ; it contains a 
famous frieze, painted by Hippolyte Flandrin, which 
runs right round the nave, and consists of a con- 
tinuous procession of various sacred characters. This 
is considered one of the finest examples of modern 
fresco painting. 

From St. Vincent de Paul it is a good step 
westwards, by the Rue de la Fayette and the Rue 
de Chateaudun, to the church of La Trinite, built 
between thirty and forty years ago. A handsome 
church, in quite a modern Renaissance style, it 
groups well with its surroundings. Fine materials 
have been used in the building, and it is decorated 
inside with paintings and stained glass. 

Another handsome modern church is that of St. 
Augustin, reached by walking west from La Trinite 
along the Rue St. Lazare, the Rue de la Pepiniere, and 
then to the right a short distance up the Boulevard 
Malesherbes. St. Augustin's was built at about the 
same period as the church of La Trinite ; it is in a 
modern style of mixed Romanesque and Byzantine, 
with a handsome and well-proportioned dome. Cast- 
iron and stone have been used in conjunction. This, 
church also looks in harmony with the buildings of 
modern Paris. 

From St. Augustin's the Boulevard Malesherbes 
leads southwards directly down to the Place and 
church of La Madeleine, the most important of the 
modern churches in Paris. 



SOME CHURCHES 55 

The Madeleine was erected during the latter part 
of last century, and is a handsome building of the 
classical type. It is surrounded by fifty-two huge 
Corinthian columns, each about 50 feet high ; its 
base is raised nearly 20 feet above ground. The 
bronze doors, by Triquetti, at the west end are of 
huge size and very ornamental. The interior is 
sumptuously decorated with sculptures, coloured 
marble, paintings, and gilding ; the scheme of decora- 
tion is principally in white and gold. The interior is 
rather gloomy, as the church is only partially lighted 
by three circular windows in the roof; there are no 
windows in the walls. This is considered the most 
fashionable church in Paris, and is famous for the 
fine music of its services. 

A few steps from the Place de la Madeleine, along 
the Rue Royale, take us to the Rue St. Honore. 
On the left, and about half a mile down this 
street, we see another fashionable church, St. Roch ; 
it is earlier in date than the Madeleine, but it is 
not architecturally interesting. This church is also 
celebrated for the beauty of its music. In 1795, in 
front of St. Roch, Napoleon Bonaparte first came 
into prominence ; he was then in command of the 
troops of the Convention, and he defeated the forces 
of the Royalists. 

On the southern bank of the Seine there are also 
many fine churches, both ancient and modern. The 
grandest of these, the Pantheon, once dedicated to 
St. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, is no longer 
a church. It stands on high ground in the Quartier 
Latin, almost due south of Notre Dame, and not far 



56 IN PARIS 

from the Sorbonne, or University; it is at the end 
of the Rue Soufflot, which turns out of the Boulevard 
St. Michel on the left as you go southwards. 

This church was built by the architect Soufflot, 
between 1764 and 1790; but in 1791, after the out- 
break of the Revolution, it was turned into a 
pantheistic temple, and dedicated to all great 
Frenchmen. In 1806 it was reconsecrated as a 
church ; in 1830 it once more became the Pantheon ; 
in 1 85 1 it again became a church; but when Victor 
Hugo was buried there in 1885, the building was 
declared to be a secular temple, and it so remains. 
In the crypt are the tombs of Voltaire, Rousseau, 
Mirabeau, and other celebrated Frenchmen ; there is 
also the tomb of Soufflot the architect. 

The Pantheon is built in the form of a Greek cross ; 
it has a lofty and conspicuous dome, 2"]^ feet high 
and 75 feet across. 

Corinthian columns at the imposing west end 
support a tympanum, in which is a remarkable series 
of figures sculptured by David of Angers ; here 
France is represented bestowing rewards on Fenelon, 
Voltaire, Cuvier, Laplace, Rousseau, Mirabeau, Lafay- 
ette, and other famous men. The interior is very 
striking ; it measures 370 feet in length by 276 in 
width. There are many statues of saints and others, 
and many historical paintings. From the gallery 
above the dome one gets an excellent view of Paris 
and the country round the city. Owing to the high 
ground on which the Pantheon stands its fine dome 
forms a very conspicuous and useful landmark from 
many parts of Paris. 



<^ 



SOME CHURCHES 57 

A few yards north-east of the Pantheon we come 
to the spacious church of St. Etienne du Mont, built 
chiefly in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries ; 
the style is mixed, late Gothic and Renaissance, but 
although its architecture is debased, the church 
possesses a certain picturesque charm which appeals 
more perhaps to the artist than to the architect. Its 
most remarkable feature is a beautiful jube, or rood- 
screen, carved by Biard in the first years of the 
seventeenth century. Two graceful staircases wind 
round the columns of this screen up to the gallery, 
which here takes the place of the usual triforium. 

In the Rue St. Jacques, between the Boulevard St. 
Germain and the Seine, we come upon the interesting 
old church of St. Severin. Most of it dates from the 
thirteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries; the 
west doorway, that of St. Pierre aux Boeufs, was 
brought here about sixty years ago, when St. Pierre 
was taken down. There is fine old stained glass 
in some of the windows of the nave, and in the 
chapels are some striking modern frescoes by Flandrin 
and others. 

Eight or nine hundred yards south-westward of 
St. Severin, on the other side of the Boulevard 
St. Germain, is the grand old church of St. Sulpice, 
rather north of the Palace of the Luxembourg. 
St. Sulpice was built during the reigns of Louis 
Quatorze and Louis Quinze ; it is the most spacious 
in Paris, being even larger than Notre Dame. St. 
Sulpice contains many good frescoes, and some parts 
of the interior are richly decorated ; it is built in the 
classical style ; at the west end are two lofty towers ; 



58 IN PARIS 

it is altogether an imposing church, but the archi- 
tecture is cumbrous. 

A Httle way north of St. Sulpice, along the Rue 
Bonaparte and across the Boulevard St. Germain, 
stands the famous old Romanesque church St. 
Germain des Pres, and although it comes so late in 
the list it is perhaps the oldest, and certainly one 
of the most interesting, churches in Paris. The nave 
dates from the eleventh, and the choir from the twelfth 
century ; this church was restored nearly a hundred 
years ago. It contains a fourteenth century statue 
of the Blessed Virgin and some good modern frescoes 
by Flandrin. Readers of French history will easily 
recall the numerous historic associations connected 
with this church. It is now difficult to believe that 
the picturesque old building once stood, as its name 
implies, in the midst of meadow-land. 

Three-quarters of a mile north-west of St. Germain 
des Pres, just south of the War Office, is the large 
modern church of Ste. Clotilde, an imitation of 
fourteenth century Gothic, built between forty and 
fifty years ago. Though Ste. Clotilde will not stand 
a comparison with real work of the fourteenth century, 
it is a fine church, with two lofty spires at the west 
end. Its stained glass windows have much rich 
beauty, and it contains several paintings and basj/ 
reliefs ; the spires are visible from many parts of 
Paris. 

There are several other churches worth seeing, but 
we have not space to describe them. 

Among English churches in Paris are : St. George, 
y Rue Auguste Vacquerie, Avenue dTena; the British 



THE PALACES 59 

Embassy Church, 5 Rue d'Aguesseau, Faubourg 
St. Honore ; the American Churches of the Holy- 
Trinity, 19 Avenue de lAlma, Champs Elysees ; and 
St. Luke's Chapel, 5 Rue de la Grande Chaumiere, 
near Boulevard du Mont Parnasse. Services : St. 
George, 8.30 and 10.30 a.m., 3 and 8 p.m. ; British 
-Embassy, 8.30 and 10.30 a.m., 3.30 and 8 p.m. ; the 
Holy Trinity, 8.30 and 1 1 a.m., 4 p.m. ; St. Luke's 
Chapel, 8.30 and 10.30 a.m., 8 p.m. There are also 
several Nonconformist chapels. 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE LOUVRE AND THE TUILERIES— THE HOTEL 
DE VILLE— LUXEMBOURG, AND OTHERS 

Most of the public buildings of Paris are, to all 
appearance, palaces. They are more or less modern, 
but several, of which the Hotel de Ville is chief, have 
been rebuilt after the old style, and have interesting 
associations. If one wishes adequately to appreciate 
and to enjoy a visit to Paris, it is advisable to have 
some acquaintance with old forms of architecture and 
some knowledge of French history. 

The President of the Republic, when in Paris, 
resides in the Palace of the Elysee. It is not one 
of the finest palaces, but it is a handsome building, 
splendidly furnished and decorated. A special per- 
mission is required in order to see the Elysee. It 



6o IN PARIS 

was originally erected at the beginning of the 
eighteenth century for the Count of Evreux, but 
it was afterwards enlarged. Then Madame de 
Pompadour inhabited the palace. Later on the 
Duchess of Bourbon lived there. From this Princess 
it took the name of Elysee Bourbon ; as from 
President Louis Napoleon, afterwards the Emperor 
Napoleon III., it took the name of Elysee Napoleon. 
Both he and his famous uncle, the first Emperor, 
lived there for a time. The Elysee stands in the 
Rue du Faubourg St. Honore; the large gardens 
behind it stretch away to the Champs Elysees. 
Close to the Elysee, also in the Rue du Faubourg 
St. Honore, stands the British Embassy, a fine 
house, belonging to our Government, and opposite 
the English Church. 

In describing the principal Parisian palaces we 
will first visit those on the right or north bank of 
the Seine, and then those on the left. 

Starting from the British Embassy, we must walk 
nearly a mile along the Rue St. Honore before we 
reach, on the left, the great mass of buildings formed 
by the Palais Royal and the Theatre Frangais, both 
of them full of memories. On the right, on the 
farther side of the Rue de Rivoli, we see part of 
the enormous range of palaces called the Louvre 
and the Tuileries. It is difficult, in describing them, 
to convey an adequate idea of these imposing build- 
ings ; London contains nothing that approaches their 
colossal magnificence. The front of the old Louvre 
facing the Seine, the new Louvre, and the connecting 
wing of the Tuileries, measure something like 2,250 



THE LOUVRE 6i 

feet in length (almost half a mile) ; altogether the 
palaces spread over nearly fifty acres of ground. 
The old Louvre, a square, compact palace, of four 
sides, with a large central court, is architecturally the 
most interesting part of the huge pile of buildings. 

In olden days the site now occupied by the Louvre 
was covered by a forest swarming with wolves. In 
order to lessen the number of these savage beasts 
a hunting-lodge was built in the forest, and was 
called the Louverie, hence the name Louvre. This 
is the romantic derivation of the word, but the more 
probable though prosaic derivation is from the Saxon 
leowar or lower, meaning a fortified camp. Early 
in the thirteenth century Philip Augustus demolished 
the hunting-lodge, and built a castle in its place- 
Three centuries later, Francis I. demolished the 
castle, and planned a great part of the present 
old Louvre. He began by building the southern 
portion of the west side, and employed Pierre Lescot 
as architect ; the building was continued under the 
succeeding French kings. Catherine de Medicis took 
great interest in its progress, and so did Henri 
Quatre. Perrault's grand colonnade at the east side 
of the old Louvre was added in the time of Louis 
Quatorze. The building was finally completed by 
Louis Napoleon, who built most of those huge wings 
of the new Louvre which stretch out west of the 
old palace. Some of this work, the Pavilion de 
Richelieu for instance, is perhaps rather overdone 
with ornament. 

The original X-ouvre and the south wing of the 
new Louvre contain the famous and magnificent 



62 IN PARIS 

collections of ancient and modern sculpture, paint- 
ings, drawings, gems, Etruscan, Egyptian, Assyrian, 
Greek, and Roman antiquities, besides various other 
rare and curious objects, which, taken as a whole, 
probably constitute the finest existing collection 
contained in one building. To begin with, there 
are more than 2,500 pictures. 

The larger antiquities and the sculptures are on 
the ground floor ; the pictures, gems, and smaller 
antiquities are on the first floor ; the second floor 
contains a naval museum, a few interesting pictures 
and drawings by old masters, as well as ethnographi- 
cal and Chinese collections. 

Among the ancient sculptures is the far-famed 
Greek statue called the Venus of Milo, perhaps the 
most celebrated female statue in the world. The 
Salon Carre, on the first floor, contains masterpieces 
by Italian, Spanish, Dutch, Flemish, and old French 
painters.* The beautiful Galerie dApollon, also on 
this floor, contains the splendid gems, enamels, and 
old furniture. It takes days and days to gain any 
idea of the beautiful and wonderful things in the 
Louvre. 

In 1 87 1 the Communists tried to burn down this 
magnificent building, but their purpose was stayed, 
though not till after mischief had been done. ^ 

The Minister of Finance has his offices in the 
north wing of the new Louvre, opposite the Palais 
Royal. 

The central buildings of the fine old palace of 

* We understand the arrangement of the pictures in the Louvre is 
in course of alteration. 



THE TUILERIES 63 

the Tulleries were entirely destroyed : only the 
north and south wings are left. These connect 
with the corresponding wings of the new Louvre, 
and the larger part of even these remains has been 
rebuilt. The main building of the Tuileries, which 
fronted the gardens, and stretched across from the 
Rue de Rivoli almost to the Pont Royal, was ruth- 
lessly burned, in 1871, by the Communists, before 
the troops could prevent its destruction. Formerly 
the ground on which this palace stood was covered 
by tile-kilns, tuileries, hence its name. 

In 1564 Queen Catherine de Medicis began to 
build this palace, and succeeding French kings 
finished it, but they seldom resided there ; they 
seem to have preferred the Louvre, and later on 
Versailles. After the outbreak of the Revolution, 
Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, and the royal family 
were compelled to return here from Versailles, es- 
corted by the people to the very gates of the palace ; 
later on, after their attempt to escape and their 
recapture, they were brought back to the Tuileries, 
and remained there till they were taken to the prison 
of the Temple. At the Restoration, the Tuileries 
was the royal and imperial residence until the 
Franco-German war of 1870. 

The Pavilion de Flore was used by Marie Antoinette 
for evening receptions. It is in the south wing, which 
has been restored since the fire of 1871, and it is now 
occupied by the Colonial Minister and his staff 

The airy Tuileries Gardens stretch right away west- 
ward to the Place de la Concorde, once the blood- 
stained Place de la Revolution. The larger portion 



64 IN PARIS 

of these gardens was re-planned more than two 
hundred years ago, in the time of Louis Quatorze. 
Some of the orange trees which are put out in their 
tubs in summer-time, and form a most remarkable 
avenue along these gardens, are said to be nearly four 
hundred years old, and may have belonged to Louise- 
d'Angouleme. The Tuileries Gardens are especially 
resorted to by children and their nurses, and here 
may be seen many amusing and characteristic traits 
illustrating the ways and manners of the daintily 
dressed children of Paris. The large eight -sided 
basin near the Place de la Concorde is sometimes a 
very pretty sight ; boats with gay streamers, and 
mimic ships with yellow and red and orange sails, 
make a toy flotilla in the basin. Sometimes their 
young owners race them side by side, or they are 
launched from opposite sides, and the collision, when 
they meet, causes a hubbub of excitement among the 
juvenile bystanders. 

North of the new Louvre, on the farther side of 
the Rue de Rivoli, stands the Palais Royal, formerly 
the Palais Cardinal, for it was built by Cardinal 
Richelieu. The original palace has suffered greatly 
from fire, and has been more than once rebuilt. The 
Conseil d'Etat has its offices here, and the palace is 
closed to the public. Behind it is its long gardeaj^ 
with seats, and here a band plays in summer-time. 
There are shops under the colonnade which surrounds 
the garden, and their windows, chiefly stocked with 
jewellery and watches, make a most attractive display, 
the goods being arranged with exquisite taste. There 
are also several cheap restaurants and cafes in the 



THE PALAIS ROYAL 65 

Palais Royal ; but the Duval Bouillon establishments 
have greatly interfered with these restaurants. The 
Palais Royal nowadays is almost deserted for the great 
boulevards, with their gay and glittering shop-fronts. 

It was into this garden of the Palais Royal that 
a man frantically rushed from the Cafe de Foy 
on Sunday, July 12th, 1789. This was Camille 
Desmoulins. Springing on a table, he in thrilling 
words, and without the hesitating speech that often 
characterised him, called out, " To arms, citizens ! " 
and incited the people to open revolt. He snatched 
leaves from the trees and bade his audience wear the 
green badge in token of their resolve to fight their 
oppressors ; they were starving ; he bade them fight 
for food for their children, for liberty. " To arms, to 
arms ! " he repeated. But here was the difficulty, 
the people did not know where to find arms ; till it 
leaked out next day that Monsieur de Sombreuil, at 
the Hotel des Invalides, had in his charge some 
28,000 muskets. Armed with these, the people marched 
on the Bastille, forced its governor, de Launay, to 
surrender the fortress, and then they demolished it. 

Three-quarters of a mile eastwards, along the Rue 
de Rivoli, we come to the splendid building called 
the Hotel de Ville. This was another of the fine old 
palaces of Paris on which the reckless mob, during 
the Commune of 1871, spent their senseless fury; 
they utterly destroyed the old building by fire. It 
was one of the finest examples of the Renaissance 
period, begun in the reign of Francis I., finished early 
in the following century, and considerably added to 
and enlarged in the beginning of the nineteenth. 

E 



66 IN PARIS 

The present Hotel de Ville was built soon after the 
old one was burned, in 1871. The form and style 
are the same as those of the old building, but still 
more magnificent. It is said to have cost ;^2,ooo,ooo. 
The Hotel de Ville stands in a spacious square close 
to the Seine, and can be well seen. It is difficult to 
call to mind any modern civil building so beautiful 
as this. Rich as the fagade is, the ornament thereon is 
not redundant, the pavilions of the centre and of each 
corner rise above the rest of the building, and with 
their Mansard roofs and rich gables are as solid as 
they are picturesque. The clock-tower rising above 
the grand mass gives elegance to the whole. It is 
said that the statues of noteworthy men born in 
Paris, which decorate the building, are a hundred in 
number. The exquisite sculpture of these, of the 
mouldings and other ornament, testifies to the 
thoroughness of detail. 

The Prefect of the Seine, the chief magistrate of 
Paris, lives in the Hotel de Ville, and has his offices 
there. It was at one of the windows of the Hotel 
de Ville that King Louis XVI., October 6th, 1789, 
was forced to show himself to the people, wearing 
the tricolour cockade.'^ In the succeeding revolutions 
of 1830, 1848, and 1 87 1, the Hotel de Ville was the 
temporary headquarters of the party in power. y 

At the corner of the streets Hotel de Ville and 
Figuier, is a most interesting old house, a choice 
example of domestic architecture at the close of the 

* The King had previously, on the 17th July, 1789, shown himself 
at a balcony of the H6tel de Ville, with a tricolour cockade in his hat. 
^See Carlyle's French Revolution, * 



THE HOTEL DE CLUNY 6^ 

fifteenth century. This is the Hotel de Sens, built by 
the Archbishop of Sens for a town house for the see. 
The large bartisan turrets are very remarkable, and 
give great originality to the house. It now belongs 
to a private individual. There are many interesting 
old houses in the quarter of the Marais near here. 

If we go on from the Hotel de Ville by the Pont 
d'Arcole to the He de la Cite, cross the Pont au 
Double, and then go along the Rue du Dante to the 
Boulevard St. Germain, we shall come, on the left, 
to the fine half Gothic, half Renaissance, Hotel de 
Cluny, built by the abbots of Cluny in the fifteenth 
and sixteenth centuries. The Roman Emperor 
Constantius Chlorus is said to have built a palace 
on this site at the end of the third, or the first years 
of the fourth century ; the palace was used as a resi- 
dence by the Roman emperors and the succeeding 
Prankish kings. These kings, as has been said, 
afterwards built themselves a royal palace on the 
He de la Cite, the site of which is now occupied 
by the Palais de Justice. The ancient Roman 
palace was of vast dimensions ; a part of it, the 
baths, still remains, joining the Hotel Cluny, and 
goes by the name of Le Palais des Thermes. 

The Hotel or Musee de Cluny contains an amazing 
collection of old furniture, carvings, tapestry, faience, 
enamels, jewels, gold and silver plate and ornaments, 
paintings, bronzes, Venetian glass, weapons, armour, 
and curios of all sorts and periods ; altogether more 
than ii,ooo objects are to, be found here. 

The remains of the Roman Palais des Thermes 
are imposing, the chief hall being more than 60 feet 



68 IN PARIS 

long, about 60 feet high, and nearly 40 feet wide. 
Some Roman antiquities are kept in this hall. 

This Hotel de Cluny has associations especially 
interesting to Britons. Mary Tudor, sister of our 
Henry VHL, the young widow of Louis XH., took 
up her residence here, and the chamber she occupied 
still goes by the name of La Reine Blanche, the 
mourning worn by French queens being always 
white. James V. of Scotland was also lodged in 
the Hotel de Cluny, when he visited Paris in order to 
marry Magdalen, daughter to Francis I. of France. 

Crossing the Boulevard St. Michel, and turning 
on the right down the Rue Racine, we cross the 
Place de I'Odeon, and then proceed on the left along 
the Rue de Conde ; we have only left the Musee 
Cluny a few minutes, when we reach the Palace of 
the Luxembourg in the Rue de Vaugirard. 

A large part of this palace was built for Marie 
de Medicis, after the death of her husband, Henri 
Quatre ; it has been a good deal altered in this 
century, and is now used as the palace of the French 
Senate. It is not shown to the public. The 
President of the Senate lives in the Petit Luxem- 
bourg, a wing to the west of the palace, of about the 
same period. It was to decorate the saloons of the 
Luxembourg that Rubens painted his famous series 
of pictures, twenty-one in number, relating to Marie 
de Medicis, a series which was transferred to the 
galleries of the Louvre when the palace was in 1779 
given to the King's brother, the Count of Provence, 
as a residence. Farther west, in the Luxembourg 
Gardens, we come to the Musee, a gallery containing 



THE HOTEL DES INVALIDES 69 

the works of living French artists, formerly the 
orangery of the palace. This collection is said to 
possess the best works of modern French sculptors and 
painters ; several of the sculptures are especially fine. 
As a rule, ten years after the artist's death his works 
are transferred hence to the Louvre or the provinces. 

South of the palace are the extensive and beauti- 
ful Luxembourg public gardens, much resorted to 
by the people ; on one side they are thickly planted 
with trees, and on a hot day the seats under these 
form a delightful resting-place. 

There are several fine oleanders on the terrace 
below the steps, but as a whole the gardens are not 
well supplied with flowers. ' In that part of the 
gardens near the Musee, men play lawn tennis and 
croquet on the gravel walks with much enthusiasm, 
after the work of the day is over. 

The Hotel des Invalides, though it never was a 
palace, is a very palatial building, some 500 or 600 
yards from the new Pont Alexandre III. The 
" Invalides " was built towards the end of the seven- 
teenth century by Louis XIV., as an asylum for 
aged and invalided soldiers. It is of vast extent, 
and covers many acres of ground. Part of it con- 
sists of the church of St. Louis ; the splendid gilded 
dome, nearly 350 feet high, is conspicuous from far 
and near. Beneath the lofty dome is the imposing 
granite sarcophagus of Napoleon I. 

The Hotel des Invalides contains a remarkable 
collection of ancient and modern weapons, of armour 
and other things connected with the science of wan 



70 IN PARIS 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE STREETS AND BOULEVARDS 

It is difficult for anyone to be long in Paris without 
noticing, and indeed becoming infected by, the love 
of pleasure that appears to be so general in French 
men and women, especially in Parisians. One feels 
that dear old, picturesque, grimy London is the place 
to work in and to think in, but in beautiful, bright 
Paris work seems out of place. One must enjoy one's 
self: the very atmosphere sparkles with gaiety, there 
is amusement on every side. There certainly is an 
almost unlimited supply of material for serious ad- 
miration and study, but at first, at any rate, the 
pleasure spirit prevails. 

Certainly Paris is greatly indebted, in respect of out- 
side show, to Louis XIV., to Napoleon I., and, above 
all, to Bonaparte's nephew. Napoleon III. At the 
present day, in spite of all the injury and wanton 
destruction now and again perpetrated in times of 
revolution by the maddened people, Paris is about 
the most splendid of existing cities. No doubt at 
the time the improvements were made there was 
another side to the picture in the shape of reckless 
expenditure, but now that is perhaps forgotten, and 
we almost forgive it when we see the grand results 
thereby attained. 

In London we are making or proposing to make 
some fine streets ; we are erecting imposing buildings 



STREETS AND BOULEVARDS 71 

and statues, but we do our improvements slowly and 
piecemeal. Doubtless we are wiser in our generation, 
and more cautious in our methods, but in all proba- 
bility we shall be well on into the tv/entieth century 
before we have made London, so far as its buildings 
and streets are concerned, at all worthy to be the 
capital city of the largest and most powerful empire 
the world has ever seen. 

Vested interests are so much considered with us, 
that it is doubtful if London will ever become a 
really handsome city, consisting chiefly of fine broad 
thoroughfares with noble and symmetrical buildings. 
Our parks and public gardens are delightful, and 
perhaps more satisfactory (barring the statues) than 
those of any other European city ; but even our 
grandest monuments, Westminster Abbey and St. 
Paul's Cathedral, and they are very fine, cannot be 
well seen externally, because they are crowded in by 
other buildings ; while the home we have made for 
our priceless collection of old masters in such a poor 
building as the National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, 
is a disgrace to our wealthy nation. No master- 
mind seems ever to have been at work in planning 
out London ; it has come, as it were, accidentally, 
and at haphazard. 

Roughly speaking, Paris may be divided into three 
portions : first, the northern part, or Paris on the 
right bank of the Seine; secondly, the islands of 
La Cite and of St. Louis ; and thirdly, the southern 
part on the left bank of the river. 

From early days Paris has always been girdled 
by a system of fortifications; these from time to 



72 IN PARIS 

time have been enlarged, and the city is at this 
date surrounded by a huge ring of defences which 
measures in extent more than twenty-one miles. 
The last fortifications were begun in 1840, finished 
in about five years, and cost, it is said, between 
;^5 ,000,000 and ;^6, 000,000 sterling. A wide moat 
extends round the ramparts, and beyond these are 
several detached forts for additional protection 
against invasion. It is probable that the ramparts 
before long will be still farther extended. 

Old Paris as it was early in the seventeenth 
century, before the extensive alterations and addi- 
tions made under Louis XIV. and the Bonapartes, 
may yet be traced by following the line of the 
Grands Boulevards. On the north side of the Seine 
they stretch out nearly three miles, beginning at the 
church of the Madeleine and going eastwards to the 
Place de la Bastille, the site of the famous or in- 
famous fortress, a state prison destroyed by the 
people at the outbreak of the Revolution of 1789. 

The limits of old Paris on the south side of the 
river are marked partly by the Boulevard St. 
Germain, and by the palace and gardens of the 
Luxembourg, the Sorbonne or University, and the 
Maison de Cluny. The Grand Monarque destroyed 
the old fortifications, or boulevards (bulwarks). 
Louis Quatorze was despotically addicted to the' 
removal of fortifications, whether they belonged to 
cities or chateaux ; he created in place of these 
bulwarks broad roads, planted them on either side 
with trees, and called them still by the old name 
boulevard. He also caused to be erected four 



STREETS AND BOULEVARDS 73 

triumphal arches, named after the great boulevards 
themselves ; of these there still remain the Porte 
St. Denis and the Porte St. Martin. Paris therefore 
owes to Louis XIV. the creation of her most 
characteristic and distinctive feature, the boulevards. 

Just within the fortifications, and surrounding the 
city, is a complete circle of boulevards. Many of 
its sections bear the name of one of the First 
Napoleon's marshals — Soult, Murat, Ney, and others. 

The most important of the old great boulevards 
are the Boulevards de la Madeleine, des Capucines, 
des Italiens, Montmartre, Poissoniere. This great 
series of boulevards ends at Boulevard Beaumarchais, 
,on the Place de la Bastille. 

Napoleon III. greatly improved Paris by sweeping 
away old streets and creating broad and airy 
boulevards in place of them. He made the Avenue 
du Bois de Boulogne, called in his time Avenue de 
rimperatrice, the Avenue Friedland, the Boulevard 
Haussmann, etc. One enormously long modern 
boulevard traverses Paris from north to south. It 
begins at the Strasbourg Railway Station, and is called 
Boulevard de Strasbourg till it crosses Boulevard 
St. Denis and becomes Boulevard de Sebastopol ; it 
then crosses the river by the Pont au Change, and 
is called Boulevard St. Michel till it reaches Place 
Denfert-Rochereau, south of the city. Very many other 
boulevards circle round or traverse Paris, and all of 
them, especially those near the Seine, are full of busy 
life. Every sort of vehicle, from the huge, heavily 
laden steam trams to the dainty little victorias, 
with white-hatted cochers, reckless over whom they 



74 IN PARIS 

drive, make a perpetual clatter of traffic; while in 
the more fashionable quarters the daintily decked 
shop-fronts form a constant attraction to groups of 
gazers. The bon-bon and chocolate shops are es- 
pecially wonderful in their tasteful arrangement ; so 
are the comestible shops, which would tempt the 
appetite of even an unhungry gazer. 

Paris is not the noisiest of Continental cities, but 
it is less quiet than London. The whole place, ex- 
cept in the aristocratic quarters, seems to be wide 
awake, and very much alive in early morning. Street 
cries are especially noticeable as the hawkers ply 
their busy trade ; and motor-cars deafen one. 

But though the traffic in Paris is noisier, it is not 
so dense as that in some parts of London — in the 
City, for instance, the Strand, or in Holborn^ — yet 
in Paris it appears more bewildering to the foot- 
passenger, because of the want of order. The 
Parisian police, or gardiens de la paix, are not 
nearly so much in evidence as our London " men 
in blue." The coachmen in Paris seem to drive 
where they please, and if a policeman holds up a 
restraining hand the drivers of the public vehicles 
do not pay much attention to his warning. At very 
crowded parts, near the great boulevards and the 
Gare St. Lazare, a gardien de la paix may occa-; 
sionally be seen holding up a white baton. It is 
therefore necessary to be very careful in the more 
crowded places in crossing the streets. The little 
victorias skim past in such happy-go-lucky fashion 
that the only wonder is there are not more frequent 
accidents. It must be borne in mind that wheeled 



STREETS AND BOULEVARDS 75 

traffic in Paris keeps, or is said to keep, to the right, 
and not to the left of the road, as in England. 

But noisy, bustling Paris has its resting-places and 
its leisurely people. The island of St. Louis, although 
close to a whirl of life and business, is quiet and dull 
— a great contrast to the gay and lively boulevards. 

Then there are the anglers, who, regardless of all 
distractions, follow their peaceful, though seemingly 
hopeless, pastime on the banks of the muddy Seine. 
The feat may have been done, but we never saw 
anyone catch a fish in the Seine in Paris with a line. 

The poodle-shearers are rather more active, but 
they, too, pursue their ingenious craft basking in 
the sun on the river's banks. One may often see 
a poodle on his back, held firmly between the 
operator's knees as he or she deftly removes the 
fur according to the approved mode. 

Others who take life easily, but these no doubt are 
not Parisians, are the men who guide the great 
floating rafts down the river. One day, as we stood 
on the Pont des Arts, a huge raft of logs came 
floating slowly down the stream. The structure 
must have been more than 200 feet long, and many 
feet wide. There were two men at one end, and one 
man at the other; each of them had a great oar to 
guide the raft. The large logs, or rather tree-trunks 
composing it, were fastened loosely together by ropes 
and chains in a series of three or four lengths, and 
many logs in width. Numerous empty barrels were 
attached, to give the structure buoyancy. Here and 
there were some bundles of sticks and twigs for the 
men to stand upon ; the water came right over some 



^6 IN PARIS 

of the logs, and the wash from each passing stieamer 
threatened to submerge the whole structure. One of 
the men complacently smoked a pipe while he walked 
his risky way from barrel to barrel to see that the 
water had not got into them. 

The modern fashionable quarter for dwelling- 
houses lies in the Chaussee d'Antin, and west of 
the Madeleine, near the Elysee, in the Champs 
Elysees, in the district of the Faubourg St. Honore. 
The old French aristocracy chiefly inhabits the Fau- 
bourg St. Germain, facing the Tuileries, on the 
opposite side of the Seine. The famous Quartier 
Latin, the resort of students and art-workers, lies east 
of the Faubourg St. Germain. This is the learned 
corner of Paris. Here we find the University, most 
of the colleges, schools, and scientific institutions. 

This has been regarded for centuries as the 
students' quarter. Behind the church of the Sorbonne 
is the Lycee Louis-le-grand, founded in the sixteenth 
century by Francis I., and rebuilt by the Jesuits in 
1680. On the Place du Pantheon, close by, is the 
Lycee Henri Quatre, built on the remains of the old 
Abbey of Ste. Genevieve. 

The Faubourg St. Antoine, on the north side of 
the Seine near the Place de la Bastille, is the 
manufacturing quarter, and contains the dwellings of^ 
artisans. We find here cabinet-makers, wood-carvers, 
carpenters — all the most useful trades ; and in revo- 
lutionary times the outbreak has usually proceeded 
from or is fomented in this quarter. 

Besides the museums already mentioned there is 
yet another — the very interesting Musee Carnavalet, 



STREETS AND BOULEVARDS ^^ 

a beautiful building begun early in tlie sixteenth 
century and finished a hundred years later ; it stands 
in the Rue Sevign6, which leads on the left from the 
Rue de Rivoli as you go to the Place de la JJastille, 
just where the Rue de Rivoli changes its name to 
Rue St. Antoine. The Maison Carnavalet was the 
town house of Madame de Sevign(f from 1677 to 
1696. It is now a municipal museum, and contains 
objects relating to the history of Paris from early 
down to recent times. Various objects can be seen 
here connected with the revolutions of 1789, 1830, 
and 1848. Some of the sculpture on the building 
is the work of the famous Jean Goujon, 1520-72. 

In the Rue de Richelieu, just north of the Palais 
Royal, we find the wonderful Bibliotheque Nationale, 
or the National Library of France, said to be the 
largest in the world. The Palais Mazarin formerly 
stood on this site, built by the powerful and crafty 
minister of the early days of Louis XIV. Very little 
is left of the original building. 

The library comprises four divisions : — 

1. First there are printed books and maps, some 
3,000,000 volumes, many of them very rare and 
splendidly bound. 

2. About 100,000 volumes of manuscripts. 

3. A large collection of medals, coins, ancient 
inscriptions, gems, cameos. 

4. About 2,500,000 engravings. 

The Salle de Travail, or general reading-room, is 
not so fine as that in the British Museum. 

On the other side of the Rue de Richelieu, on the 
right as you walk towards the Louvre, an imposing 



78 IN PARIS 

and handsome modern fountain has been erected in 
honour of Moliere. 

There are other fine libraries in Paris. There is 
the Bibliotheque de I'Arsenal, near the Boulevard 
Henri Quatre, Rue de Sully ; the Bibliotheque Ste. 
Genevieve, near the Pantheon ; the Bibliotheque 
Mazarine, adjoining the Institut de France across the 
river ; and the Bibliotheque de la Ville, close to 
the Musee Carnavalet. 

The French nation has a great respect for its 
dead ; even the more thoughtless Parisians, inferior 
as they are in many ways to provincials, pay much 
regard to the last resting-places of their friends and 
relatives. On the 2nd of November, All Souls' Day, 
most of the respectable artisans, freethinkers though 
they be, make a point of visiting a cemetery with 
wreaths of mimortelles. The largest and most in- 
teresting of Parisian cemeteries is Pere-la-Chaise, 
rather more than a mile north-east of the Place de la 
Bastille. It is of considerable extent — about no. 
acres, and it contains many fine tombs. All sorts 
of distinguished people have been buried there, or 
monuments have been erected to their memory. 
Abelard and Heloise, Moliere, La Fontaine, Beranger, 
Thiers, Balzac, Michelet, Scribe, Edmond About, 
Alfred de Musset, Emile Souvestre, Chopin, Cheru- 
bini, Auber, Bizet, Ingres, Talma, Rachel, and many^ 
others, including Dejazet, the well-known comic 
actress ; here lie also several of Napoleon's mar- 
shals. The northern cemetery is that of Montmartre, 
which is also full of interest ; and right away to the 
south is the cemetery of Mont Parnasse. Altogether 
there are more than twenty burial-grounds in Paris. 




LA FONTAINE MOLIERE. 



THEATRES, ETC. 79 

CHAPTER VIII. 

THEATRES AND AMUSEMENTS 

All sorts of amusements are to be found in Paris ; and 
the French being a nation of actors, there is no lack 
of theatres. . 

Chief among these is the magnificent new Opera 
House, designed by Charles Garnier. This, said to 
be the largest and most splendid theatre in existence, 
stands north of the Boulevard des Capucines and the 
Grand Hotel. The fine new Avenue de I'Op^ra leads 
up from the Theatre Frangais to the Opera House, 
and was made in order that a striking view might be 
had of the building from a distance ; the French fore- 
sight and eye for proportion in regard to general 
effect are very remarkable in such matters. The 
Opera House was completed in 1874; it took thirteen 
years to build, and, including the price of the ground 
on which it stands, it cost nearly ^2,000,000. The 
outside is disappointing, but the exigencies of a 
theatre seem to militate against the production of 
a fine whole in regard to its exterior, especially when 
all the building can be seen. The most striking part 
of this exterior is the front, or facade, adorned with 
fine statues and masses of sculpture, representing 
Poetry, Music, Drama, Declamation, Song, and Dance. 
But once inside the sumptuous building we are aware 
of the difference between it and other theatres. When 
the doors are opened to holders of reserved seats 



8o IN PARIS 

only a few persons are allowed to pass at a time to 
the staircase ; and this staircase is the crowning glory 
of the building — it is probably the most splendid 
thing of the kind in the world. Seen for the first 
time at night, brilliantly lighted by electricity, it 
makes one gape with wonder, and suggests the stair- 
case of a fairy tale or of the Caliph's in the Arabian 
Nights. The columns and steps are of the finest 
white marble, the handrail is in onyx, the balusters 
of rosso antico^ the ceilings are adorned with paintings, 
and the bronzework of the lamps is very fine. All 
the materials are the very best, and their reality adds 
solidity to the splendour of the general effect, which 
is certainly overpowering. Yet this is only the en- 
trance to a theatre ! The French are truly a strange 
and wonderful people. 

The foyer, or public promenade, which can be seen 
between the acts, is a showy feature of the building ; 
nearly 200 feet in length, it extends along the front 
of the Opera House, above the portico. The foyer 
is very rich in marble and sculpture, it glitters with 
electric light and great mirrors; but the ornamentation 
is overdone, it is very inferior to the staircase in point 
of taste. The ceiling is decorated and has fine 
paintings by Baudry, but it is difficult to see them 
well. 

From the foyer you can step on to the loggia, 
look out over the Place de I'Opera and the Boulevard 
des Capucines, and enjoy some delightful fresh air. 

The auditorium is richly decorated in red and 
gold ; but here, again, the ornament is too profuse, and 
the effect is heavy. The ceiling is elaborately painted, 



THEATRE FRANCAIS 8i 

and the great crystal chandelier produces a glorious 
mass of light. 

The singing and acting are of course first rate ; the 
chorus and orchestra are of the highest quality ; the 
ballet and premieres danseuses as good as they can be ; 
while the pieces are splendidly mounted. During the 
opera season, performances are given Mondays, Wed- 
nesdays, and Fridays ; in winter also on Saturdays. 
The price of places is high, and all good seats are 
booked early or taken en location^ as it is called. 

The Theatre Frangais,* which is owned by the 
society called the Comedie Frangaise, takes the first 
place among the theatres ; it adjoins one end of the 
Palais Royal. The present theatre was built at the 
end of the eighteenth century. The finest acting in 
Paris is to be seen here, and the plays are almost 
always of a superior kind — tragedies, comedies, and 
dramas. It is sickening to remember that through 
much of the Reign of Terror sentimental plays were 
acted here, until Collot d'Herbois sent the actors to 
prison, whence they were finally delivered only 
after the ninth Thermidor and the execution of 
Robespierre. All the great French actors have 
appeared in turn at the Theatre Frangais — Talma, 
Mdlle. Mars, Jeanne Ollivier, Julie Candeille, Rachel, 
and others. ITie great Sarah Bernhardt was a 
shining light of the Comedie Frangaise, but she 
has quitted the society and has set up a theatre 
of her own. At the Frangais they still sometimes 
act the plays of Moliere, Corneille, Racine, and 

* The Theatre Fran5ais was destroyed by fire on the 8th March 
1900 — while this book was passing through the press, 
F 



82 IN PARIS 

other old dramatists, but they more frequently give 
modern dramas. When the theatre is open, you 
can go any night to the Frangais, and though you 
may not care for the piece, the acting is almost 
sure to be of the best quality : it is acting pure and 
simple ; there is no music, and very little scenery, 
to help out the performance. This theatre has 
famous traditions. Here, in 1784, Beaumarchais, 
after years of opposition, succeeded in producing his 
Mariage de Figaro, the famous and brilliant comedy 
which so ridiculed and stigmatised the vices of the 
ruling classes, the nobility, and their avowed privi- 
leges, that Louis Seize is said to have exclaimed, 
when the piece submitted to him for approval was 
read aloud by Madame Campan, " It is detestable ; 
it shall never be performed ! " 

But it happened that the King's brothers, Mes- 
sieurs les Comtes de Provence et d'Artois, had seen 
the play privately acted at a friend's country house, 
and so many arguments were urged in its favour — 
arguments, it is said, enforced by Marie Antoinette— 
that the Mariage de Figaro was performed at the 
Frangais and met with an extraordinary success. Its 
open and witty mockery of the nobles and their 
heartless vices helped to break down the barriers 
of serf- like respect and obedience, and doubtk^s 
hastened on the outbreak of the Revolution. It was 
at this first performance that Jeanne Ollivier, then 
a charming girl of sixteen, created the character of 
Cherubino. 

This theatre is a very storehouse of the full- 
length portraits, drawings, medallions, bronzes, 



OTHER THEATRES 83 

marble statues, and accessories connected with 
actors, actresses, and the drama, amassed since the 
Comedie Francaise was founded as an institution, 
in the time of Louis Quatorze. The collection in 
the foyer, of marble statues and busts of famous 
dramatists and actors, is of the greatest, interest ; 
many others are in the halls, lobbies, and passages. 

There are other notable theatres — the Opera 
Comique, for light opera, lately rebuilt near the 
Boulevard des Italiens, in the Place Boieldieu ; the 
Odeon, north-east of the Luxembourg, for high- 
class tragedy, comedy, and drama ; the Gymnase, 
near the Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, where comedies 
are performed ; the Varietes, south of the Boulevard 
Montmartre, for operettas and farces ; the Vaude- 
ville, near the Opera House, at a corner of the Boule- 
vard des Capucines, chiefly for comedies; the Theatre 
Sarah Bernhardt ; Theatre du Palais Royal ; Theatre 
des Bouffes Parisiens, in the Rue Montigny ; Theatre 
Porte St. Martin ; the Folies Dramatiques, on the 
Boulevard St. Martin ; and many more. 

The Opera House, the Frangais, the Odeon, and the 
Opera Comique all receive support from the State, 
which grants them subsidies of various amounts. 

It is said that most of the theat-res in Paris do 
not prosper as they used to do, and that the cafe 
concerts, which resemble our music halls and variety 
entertainments, are now more popular. Two of the 
largest and best-known of these places of entertain- 
ment are the Folies Bergere in the Rue Richer, and 
Olympia on the Boulevard des Capucines. 

Concerts and art exhibitions of course abound. 



84 IN PARIS 

There are also several large circuses, panoramas, 
and skating-rinks. The public masked balls at the 
Opera House for fashionable people, and the dances 
at the Bal Bullier in the Quartier Latin for students 
and others, present characteristic features of Parisian 
amusement. 

A French circus is nearly always clever and worth 
seeing. At the Nouveau Cirque in the Rue St. 
Honor6 a first-rate performance is given, consisting 
of evolutions by highly trained little ponies, very 
funny clowns, clever dances, graceful riding d la haute 
ecole^ wonderful acrobat bicyclists and unicyclists ; 
there is to be seen Rapoli, a marvellous balancer and 
juggler, he is almost a magician ; bicycle racing on 
sloping boards placed round the arena, over which 
the competitors race at fearful speed. Then the 
carpeting is taken away, the wooden floor of the 
arena sinks, and water gushes in to the depth of 
about 1 8 inches. A pantomimic performance takes 
place over stepping-stones and across this shallow 
water ; a carriage and pair drives through it ; a 
bicyclist falls off his machine into it; a gendarme 
and others go to the rescue, and all fall in. 

Finally the flooring sinks still deeper ; there is a 
fresh gush of water ; the arena has become a deep 
pond. A young woman plunges in from a platform 
more than 50 feet above ; others dive across or 
perform acrobatic feats in the water ; other young 
women go through a series of pretty figures in it. 
Finally a man enveloped in flames dives from the 
lofty platform amid a roar of applause. 

The most popular form of amusement seems to be 



RACES 85 

found in the races at Longchamp, at Vincennes, at 
Auteuil, at Chantilly, or further afield at Saint-Ouen, 
at Maison-Lafitte, at Compiegne, Fontainebleau, and 
other places. There are constant races at Longchamp 
and some others of these localities; they seem to 
last from February to December, and are always 
thronged with spectators. There is no space in 
which to speak of the Clubs and Cercles in Paris ; or 
of that grim form of amusement which some visitors 
find in exploring the famous sewers and Catacombs, 
each a subterranean city in itself After all, the 
gayest and most characteristic sights are to be found 
in the fine streets and on the boulevards, filled with 
chattering and excitable throngs ; in the cosmo- 
politan nature of the crowds sitting outside the open 
cafes till their chairs encroach on the pavement, 
lively folk who greet their acquaintance with polite 
enthusiasm, sip their coffee, their beer, their sorbets 
and sirops, and absinthe, the mingling of v/hich last 
drink with sugar and iced water is a lengthy and 
much-enjoyed performance. Then there is the out- 
wardly careless waiter, his serviette on shoulder, who 
seems to have no thought but to drive away the 
flies, yet he watches every movement, and anticipates 
every want among his customers. The streets and 
squares are gay with kiosques, quaint little painted 
towers for selling newspapers ; noisy with cries from 
the hawkers ; and fantastic with numerous quaintly 
shaved poodles ; above all, there is the attraction of 
the charming shop windows, filled with tempting 
goods displayed so as to be in their very arrangement 
works of art in exquisite taste. 



86 IN PARIS 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE ARC DE L'ETOILE— BOIS DE BOULOGNE— 
ST. DENIS— VINCENNES 

The French have been very successful in giving an 
impression of space and atmosphere in their beau- 
tiful city; the presence of the river flowing through 
its centre doubtless helps this effect, and it is curious 
to remember that the keynote of the long open 
vista that spreads from the Place du Carrousel to 
the Arc de I'Etoile was the result of an accident. 
When Louise Duchess of Angouleme, the mother 
of Francis I., was Regent, she could not endure, in 
summer-time, the noisome atmosphere of the ill- 
drained palace of the Tournelles, at that time the 
royal residence ; she removed during summer to a 
villa near the site on which the Tuileries was after- 
wards built and bought a large piece of ground, 
which she used as a garden. It is strange to think 
of two such women as Louise dAngouleme and 
Catherine de Medicis caring for the pleasures of a 
garden ; for Catherine, when she began to build the^ 
Tuileries, enlarged Louise's garden to about ^ts 
present dimensions. 

The Place du Carrousel is within the long wings 
that connect the Louvre with the Tuileries, or what 
remains of that palace. And from the Place du 
Carrousel we command a grand view across the 



BOIS DE BOULOGNE 2>y 

Tuileries gardens and the Place de la Concorde to 
the broad Champs Elysees, with its pleasantly- 
shaded seats, and the more restricted Avenue des 
Champs Elysees leading to the huge Arc de 
Triomphe de I'Etoile. 

The arch, supposed to be the largest triumphal 
arch in the world, was begun in 1806 by Napoleon 
Bonaparte to commemorate his successful battles. 
It was not, however, completed till 1836, in the 
reign of Louis Philippe. 

The great arch is more than 160 feet high, nearly 
150 feet wide, and over 70 feet deep. It is 
decorated with sculpture representing scenes prin- 
cipally relating to Napoleon's victories. Although 
nearly ;^50o,ooo have been spent on it, the Arc de 
I'Etoile is not yet completed ; further sculpture was 
to have been placed on its top. The Arc de 
Triomphe, being on high ground, is a landmark from 
most parts of Paris and the environs, while from the 
platform at the summit there is a grand view of the 
city and surrounding country. 

From the Place de I'Etoile avenues diverge in all 
directions ; there are no less than twelve of these. 
Among them are the Avenue des Champs Elysees, 
the Avenue de Friedland, the Avenue Hoche, which 
goes to the Pare de Monceau, a pleasant and quiet 
resort where the grey statues are in charming 
contrast with the trees ; the broad Avenue de la 
Grande Armee, which is a continuation of the 
Avenue des Champs Elysees, and the still more 
spacious Avenue du Bois de Boulogne. 

The great Bois de Boulogne lies to the west, and 



88 IN PARIS 

though it is beyond the ring of fortifications, it is 
so greatly resorted to by all classes of Parisians that 
it seems to be a part of the city. 

The Bois de Boulogne may be said to take the 
place of our Hyde Park, in London ; but the Bois 
is very much bigger than any public park we have 
in or about London ; it is, indeed, about as large as 
all the chief public parks of London put together. 

Porte Maillot, the nearest corner of the Bois to 
the centre of Paris, is rather more than two miles 
from the Place de la Concorde. 

The Bois de Boulogne once made part of the 
forest of Rouvray, which was Crown property. In 
1852 Napoleon III. gave the Bois to the people of 
Paris, and it was elaborately laid out with lakes, 
rockeries, waterfalls, and charming walks ; it con- 
tains about 2,250 acres. During the season, before 
dejeuner a la fourchette, equestrians and cyclists in 
great numbers take their morning rides there ; later 
in the day, between five and six, fashionable folk 
dressed in all the latest novelties drive there in the 
smartest equipages; motor-cars have of late been 
very popular with " society " in Paris ; they have, 
indeed, become a craze if not a nuisance. The most 
fashionable drive in the Bois is along the Allee de 
Longchamps, or des Acacias. In the evening thee 
Bois is frequented by those who have been kept buSy 
in Paris during the day. 

From the Place de FEtoile the Avenue de la 
Grande Armee leads through the fortifications 
straight to the Porte Maillot, and we enter the Bois 
de Boulogne to the left. Just here, at the corner 



BOIS DE BOULOGNE 89 

of the Avenue de Neuilly, is the fine Restaurant 
Gillet, but unless your purse is a long one beware 
of going in. 

One says, as one enters the Bols, " This is charm- 
ing ! " but after a time the trimly kept roads and 
paths, the regularly planted little green trees, become 
monotonous, and one tires of the Bois. It is neither 
wild wood nor formal park, though it appears to 
be an attempt to combine both. It is, however, a 
great boon for the people, inasmuch as it prevents 
building on so large a space of ground, and acts as 
lungs to the city. 

The road from the Porte Maillot leads by the 
Route de la Porte des Sablon to the Jardin d'Ac- 
climatation. This is a most interesting place made 
for the purpose of introducing into France all sorts 
of useful or ornamental animals and plants. The 
gardens contain about fifty acres. A fete day or 
Sunday afternoon in summer or autumn is the most 
characteristic time to see the Jardin d'Acclimatation. 
Then all along the Champs Elysees and the Avenue 
de la Grande Armee there is a stream of bicycles, 
motor-cars of many varieties, as well as numbers 
of horsed carriages and foot-passengers. At the Arc 
de I'Etoile many of the carriages, cycles, and motors 
branch off along the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne ; 
but the majority of pedestrians keep to the Avenue 
de la Grande Armee, and so by the Porte Maillot for 
half a mile to the Jardin d'Acclimatation. 

At the entrance gates of the garden the people 
form long files, waiting their turn to pay for ad- 
mission. On the left is the winter garden, a series 



90 IN PARIS 

of greenhouses containing varieties of green-leaved 
plants, ferns, and many splendid specimens of palms. 
Beyond is the spacious palmarium, in which are 
numerous tree-palms of great size ; but the chief 
part of it is used as a large concert hall for instru- 
mental performances. 

Adjoining the palmarium is a restaurant, with 
chairs and tables stretching into the gardens ; the 
prices seem to be moderate. 

On the right as you go into the gardens at this 
entrance are hothouses, then comes the museum and 
vivarium. Next is the monkey-house with indoor 
and outdoor cages. Then an extensive collection of 
poultry and pheasants in cages, many of which are 
open at the top. 

There are, on the left side of the walk, storks, 
flamingoes, ostriches, emus, and other birds. 

At the end we have come to, near the Porte de 
Neuilly, are large stables for horses, ponies, camels, 
and elephants. Then there are zebras, giraffes, kan- 
garoos, antelopes, goats, sheep, and other animals. 

There is a water - basin with sea - lions. The 
aquarium is small, and not of great interest. 

In the parrot-house are several fine macaws and 
many smaller parrots. Outside this are bears, 
panthers, eagles, and vultures. There is also a series^ 
of cages of wild and domestic dogs. 

The favourite drive to the Bois de Boulogne from 
the Place de I'Etoile is along the fine Avenue du 
Bois de Boulogne ; the sides of this wide avenue 
Appear to be a paradise for nurses and children of 
the well-to-do. Before long we come to the fortifi- 




;;i^^r^'f^\\'# '" "^'^ 



-^- * 



\^^ |ih i 



t£ 



BOIS DE BOULOGNE 91 

cations and the Porte Dauphine, and are in the 
Bois de Boulogne; the Route de Suresnes on the 
left leads to the Lac Inferieur, a picturesque piece 
of water, about twenty-seven acres in extent with 
two islands ; the smaller Lac Superieur is immedi- 
ately to the south. 

Just outside on the north of the Bois is the 
pleasant suburb of Neuilly. Formerly there was a 
chateau here, a favourite residence of Louis Philippe ; 
it was destroyed during the Revolution of 1848. 
Since then the park has been cut up for building 
purposes. The professional men of Paris seem to 
have a fancy for living at Neuilly. A fair takes 
place there at the end of June, and lasts for more 
than a fortnight ; it is amusing, and is greatly 
patronised by Parisians. 

In the southern part of the Bois de Boulogne is 
the Hippodrome of Longchamp, where the chief flat 
horse races near Paris are run in March, April, May, 
June, and September, and are numerously attended. 

The Champ de Courses d'Auteuil is at the opposite 
corner of the Bois ; steeplechases and hurdle races 
are run here in spring, summer, and autumn. 

It is an interesting sight after dark on a fete day or 
Sunday, as one returns from the Jardin d'Acclimata- 
tion and Bois de Boulogne by way of the Avenue 
de la Grande Armee, to watch the crowds of people 
in carriages, motor-cars, and on bicycles, including 
hosts of ladies in bloomers. Along this avenue there 
is a special asphalt track for cyclists only ; many of 
the cyclists carry Chinese lanterns on their machines, 
or wave them in their hands. 



92 IN PARIS 

The famous Abbey of St. Denis is well worth 
seeing, and is only five miles from Paris. For many 
centuries this was the last resting-place of the kings 
and queens of France. St. Denis is a busy town 
containing more than 50,000 inhabitants, and lies 
close to the Seine; its principal object of interest 
is the abbey church or cathedral. We go to 
St. Denis either by train from the Gare du Nord, 
train-tramway from station adjoining the Gare du 
Nord, or by tram which starts from the Madeleine, 
from the Opera House, or from the Place du Chatelet. 
The abbey is rather more than half a mile from the 
railway station. St. Denis is the patron saint of 
France, and "St. Denis," or '* Montjoye St. Denis," 
was for a long period the war-cry of the French 
soldiers, and this was continued long after the banner 
of St Denis, red silk covered with golden tongues, had 
fallen into disuse in the time of Louis XI. (1461-83). 

Denis, or Dionysius, is said to have been the head 
of a band of missionaries sent from Rome to Gaul 
in the middle of the third century. He took up his 
residence in Lutetia, as Paris was then called, and 
became its first bishop. In the latter part of the 
century, under the persecution of either the Emperor 
Aurelius or the Emperor Valerian, St. Denis and 
two other Christians were killed, and their bodices' 
were thrown into the Seine. Tradition says the bodies 
were rescued by a lady named Catalla ; they were 
buried, and a chapel was built over their burial- 
place. In 636 A.D., the Frankish king Dagobert I., 
•* Le Bon Roi Dagobert," founded the Benedictine 
Abbey of St. Denis. All sorts of famous events have 



ST. DENIS 93 

happened in this abbey ; the great Charlemagne was 
anointed here with the sacred chrism ; early in the 
twelfth century the standard of St. Denis, the royal 
red and gold oriflamme, the unfurling of which sum- 
moned the nation to arms, was placed above the 
high altar, by Louis le Gros ; about the same time 
the Abbot Suger rebuilt the church. The monk 
Abelard lived for some time in the Abbey of St. 
Denis. 

The church was again almost entirely rebuilt in 
the time of St. Louis, from 1226 to 1270. In 1593 
Henri Quatre professed himself a Roman Catholic 
at St. Denis, and abjured the reformed faith in which 
he had been brought up ; in the following year he 
captured Paris. Madame Louise, daughter of Louis 
Quinze, was Abbess of St. Denis. 

The church was terribly injured during the Revo- 
lution beginning in 1789; the royal tombs were 
shamefully mutilated, and the bodies they contained 
were thrown indiscriminately into two great pits dug 
close by. The remains of these bodies were after- 
wards collected, so far as was possible, and put in the 
crypt, by the orders of Louis XVI 1 1. Many of the 
effigies have been replaced, restored, or reconstructed; 
several of them had been preserved in a museum of 
monuments collected in Paris during the Revolu- 
tion, by the art-loving painter, Alexandre Lenoir. 
Napoleon I. was married to Marie Louise, Arch- 
duchess of Austria, at St Denis. Louis XVllI. 
tried to restore the fine old church, but the effort 
was so unsuccessful that the effect was worse than it 
had been in its mutilated condition. Napoleon III. 



94 IN PARIS 

employed Viollet-le-Duc to restore it fitly, and the 
work has been thoroughly well done : the general 
effect inside is very rich and imposing ; the exterior 
is rather uninteresting. One of the finest tombs is 
that in the north transept of Louis XII. and his wife, 
Anne of Brittany, by Jean Juste ; not far off is the 
tomb of Henri Deux and Catherine de Medicis, this 
is also of sixteenth century work ; the sculptor was 
Germain Pilon. The finest tomb at St Denis is that 
of Francis I., his wife, Queen Claude, and three of 
their children. It is said that Philibert Delorme, Jean 
Goujon, and Germain Pilon all had a hand in this 
monument ; it is on the south side of the church. In 
the choir there is a thirteenth century monument to 
Dagobert I. There are also the tombs of Bertrand 
du GuescHn, and the Connetable of France, Louis de 
Sancerre ; the fine fourteenth century monument of 
Charles d'Etampes, and a curious tomb of Frede- 
gonde. In the old crypt, dating from the time of 
Abbot Suger, are more tombs, monuments, and 
statues, but they are not nearly so interesting as 
those above. 

Some twenty-five miles from Paris, on the du Nord 
Railway, is Chantilly. There is not much to see in 
this small town, but its chateau with the park and 
forest are full of interest and of historical associations^^ 

This was the home of the Condes, and in the 
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries they lived here 
in true princely style. That part of the chateau 
called the chatelet dates from the sixteenth century, 
and here the great Cond6, when he gave up a military 
life, spent his last years in study. It was here that 



CHANTILLY 95 

he received his royal cousin Louis XIV., and enter- 
tained him royally, though at that time Conde 
so greatly needed money that he was deeply in 
debt. When the Grand Monarque expressed a wish 
to possess the beautiful chateau with its park and 
extensive forest, and said as much to his princely 
host, " Sire, your Majesty is master here," Conde 
answered. " But I beg your Majesty to grant me this 
favour : let me live here as your intendant." It was 
during this costly visit that Vatel, the cook, ran 
himself through with his own sword, because none 
of the fish ordered from all the seaports in the king- 
dom had arrived in time for dejeuner. The Petit 
Chateau was built by the Montmorencys, and is a 
charming specimen of Renaissance work. 

The great Conde's grandson built a splendid 
chateau at Chantilly in the time of Louis Quinze, 
but this was short-lived, being destroyed by the mob 
during the Great Revolution: about twenty years ago 
the Due d'Aumale rebuilt it; he gave the chateau, 
and its splendid collections of pictures, tapestries, 
furnitures, and gems, to the Institut de France for 
the use of the public. The .chateau, however, is only 
open to the public on Sunday and Thursday after- 
noons. The famous stables of the Condes still exist 
and afford room for about 200 horses. The race- 
course of Chantilly lies between the town and the 
forest ; it is considered the best in France, and 
Chantilly is crowded during the races, which take 
place in May and in October. The Prix du Jockey 
Club, or the French "Derby," is run at Chantilly; 
racehorses are largely bred there. 



96 IN PARIS 

Vincennes lies east of Paris, just beyond the 
fortifications, about five miles from the Louvre by 
tramway from the Place du Louvre. On the way, 
at the end of the Faubourg St. Antoine, we pass the 
Place de la Nation, once Place du Trone, because 
here, in 1660, after the Treaty of the Pyrenees, 
between France and Spain, the " Dieu-donne," Louis 
XIV., sat enthroned in state, and received the 
adulations of the people. 

In the Reign of Terror, during June and July, 
1794, the guillotine stood in the Place de la Nation. 
There is a basin in the midst of the Place, where a 
fountain plays, with some bronze figures, by Dalou, 
typifying the triumph of the Republic. 

The tram quickly takes us to the old castle of 
Vincennes, begun in the twelfth century, and since 
added to from time to time. It was for a long period 
the home of royalty, and from the fifteenth to the 
present century was used as a state prison. The 
prisoners were confined in the stern-looking donjon 
or keep. Many famous people have been prisoners 
here : among them, Henri Quatre, when King of 
Navarre ; the Grand Conde, the Due de Beaufort, the 
Cardinal de Retz ; Fouquet, the famous financial 
minister of Louis Quatorze ; Mirabeau, and others. 
The chateau is no longer shown to the ordinal^ 
public, and is used as an artillery depot ; to see it 
permission must be asked from the Minister of War. 
The fine Bois de Vincennes lies to the south of the 
chateau ; it is a beautiful park, something like the 
Bois de Boulogne. The Bois de Vincennes is to 
the East-enders, or poor class of Parisians, the same 



VINCENNES 97 

kind of recreation-ground that the Bois de Boulogne 
is to the West-end, or well-to-do citizens. The Bois de 
Vincennes covers about 2,275 acres, a still larger area 
than that of the Bois de Boulogne ; but Vincennes is 
rather spoiled by the large open space in its midst. 
This is chiefly used as exercising-ground for soldiers, 
a Champ de Manoeuvres for artillery practice ; a part 
of it is used as a racecourse, the biggest of those 
near Paris. Like the Bois de Boulogne, the Bois de 
Vincennes was formerly part of a forest. It seems 
to have been replanted by Louis Quinze, and was 
opened as a public park forty years ago. It contains 
three lakes : the small Lac de St. Mande ; south of 
this, the large Lac Daumesnil, or de Charenton, 
about fifty acres in extent, has two islands ; and 
east again of this is the Lac des Minimes, covering 
twenty acres, and containing three islands. 

North of Vincennes are the renowned peach- 
orchards of Montreuil. They are of great extent, 
and are said to produce something like 20,000,000 
peaches a year. 

Within the fortifications to the north-east is a 
small park called Buttes Chaumont, a pretty but 
entirely artificial public garden, where even the little 
brook that flows through it, and forms a cascade, 
is the result of art. There are two bridges in this 
garden, and a lake with an island, on which is an 
imitation of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. The 
garden is on the side of the hill of Belleville. 

The famous, or infamous. Gibbet of Montfaucon 
once stood near this spot. Restaurants are to be 
found in the Buttes Chaumont. 

G 



98 IN PARIS 



CHAPTER X. 

ASNI^RES— ST. CLOUD— VERSAILLES 

Many places of great interest near Paris can be seen 
in a day's excursion. The best -known and most 
popular of these is Versailles, that enormous palace 
which owes so much to the luxurious and splendour- 
loving King Louis Quatorze. 

Versailles is eleven or twelve miles south-west of 
Paris ; it can be reached either by rail or by tram- 
way. A train starting from the Gare St. Lazare, on 
the right bank, takes us to about three-quarters of a 
mile from the palace ; a train from the Gare Mont 
Parnasse, on the left bank, sets us down within half 
a mile of the vast building ; but the tramway, which 
runs there direct from the Louvre, sets us down on 
the Place d Armes, in front of the palace itself. 

The line from St. Lazare passes Asnieres, on the 
Seine, nearly four miles from Paris ; this is a centre 
for boating and other outdoor amusements. A few 
miles further we come to Suresnes, near the Long- 
champ racecourse, in the Bois de Boulogne, wherei^ 
the Grand Prix de Paris is run in June. Two miles 
beyond Suresnes the train passes through St. Cloud. 
There was once a fine old palace here, a favourite 
residence of Marie Antoinette, and also of Napoleon I. 
It was in the orangery of St. Cloud, five years before 
he became Emperor, that Bonaparte, as he was then 



ST. CLOUD 99 

called, ended the power of the Directory by expel- 
ling with his grenadiers the Council of Five Hundred, 
which held their sittings there, thus clearing the way 
for his own election as First Consul. Henri Trois 
was staying at St. Cloud when he was stabbed by the 
mad monk Jacques Clement. Napoleon HI. often 
went to St. Cloud in summer-time ; and here, in 1855, 
our own beloved Queen visited him with the Prince 
Consort. 

Unfortunately, the Germans, when they besieged 
Paris during the Franco-German War, sheltered them- 
selves in the palace, and it was destroyed by the 
shells of the French artillery. It has never been 
rebuilt. There is some very pretty scenery round 
St. Cloud, and from the terrace on which the palace 
once stood is a charming view of Paris and the Seine. 
The attractive park of nearly 1,000 acres is much 
resorted to by the Parisians on Sundays. The fine 
fountains usually play every other Sunday, or when 
the Versailles fountains are not playing. 

Less than a kilometre south of St. Cloud, and 
close to the Seine, is the famous manufactory of 
Sevres porcelain. The workshops are shown, also 
the finest examples of Sevres china. There is be- 
sides a most interesting collection of porcelain and 
pottery of all ages and kinds. 

On a fine summer's day it is very enjoyable to go 
by steamer to Sevres, St. Cloud, Suresnes, and the 
fort of Mont Valerien. Steamers for this excursion 
start from the Pont Royal near the Tuileries. 

F'rom the railway stations at Versailles tramcars 
run to the palace. This stupendous erection origin- 



u«c. 



loo ^ IN PARIS 

ated in a chateau built by Louis XIII. for a hunting- 
lodge in the midst of a large forest. A good deal 
of this chateau still remains, and forms the central 
portion of the present palace. 

When Louis XIV. grew tired of the old royal 
dwelling at St. Germain en Laye, a few miles to the 
north, he determined to enlarge his father's hunting- 
lodge, and to create at Versailles a palace which 
should surpass all records for size and expenditure. 
The gardens appear to have demanded enormous 
labour, for the original soil was poor and sandy ; 
the expense of building the palace and creating the 
gardens, fountains, and other works is said to have 
amounted to the prodigious sum of ^^40,000,000. 

Mansard was Louis XIV.'s architect. The building 
was begun under him in 1661, and the Grand 
Monarque appears to have first gone to live at his 
famous palace in 1681 or 1682. 

It was to Versailles that, in May, 1789, Louis Seize, 
by the advice of his famous minister, Neckar, 
summoned the Assembly, of the Etats Generaux, 
consisting of the three orders of nobles, clergy, and 
commons, in order to take means for settling the 
disturbed state of the country. The Tiers Etat 
(Third Estate, or Commons) proposed that the three 
estates should hold council together ; but this requesj/ 
was refused by both nobles and clergy, and conse- 
quently the Commons assembled at Versailles in 
June in the Salle du Jeu de Paume, or tennis-court, 
north of the Place dArmes. Here, by constituting 
themselves the National Assembly, they committed 
the first deliberate act of revolt, an act speedily 



VERSAILLES loi 

followed in July by the taking and demolition of the 
Bastille by the people of Paris. 

On the following 6th of October the frantic Paris 
mob, maddened by famine and the incitement of 
factious demagogues, tramped off to Versailles, killed 
the King's guard, and forced Louis Seize, the Queen, 
and their family to return to Paris. The furious mob 
greatly injured the Palace of Versailles, and since 
then it has not been used as a residence by French 
royalty ; it was not thoroughly restored till Louis 
Philippe was elected King of the French in 1830. 
He spent nearly i^ 1,000,000 on Versailles, and made 
the chief portion of it into a vast museum of works of 
art illustrative of the principal persons and events 
of French history. 

During the Franco-German War, the Palace of 
Versailles became the headquarters of William, King 
of Prussia, the grandfather of the present Emperor. 
At the time of the Commune in 1871 the French 
Government and the army retired thither ; the 
Government did not return to Paris till 1879. 

The palace consists of a great central portion and 
two huge wings. In front the spacious Place d'Armes 
is railed off from the Cour d'Honneur. In this court 
are colossal statues of French worthies — Bertrand du 
Guesclin, Bayard, Sully, Cardinal Richelieu, Turenne, 
Conde, Colbert, Duquesne, and others — with an 
equestrian statue of Louis Quatorze in the middle. 

The north wing contains the richly decorated 
chapel and the theatre. This theatre was built by 
Louis Quinze for Madame de Pompadour. 

It is said that the singing of certain songs in thig 



I02 . IN PARIS 

theatre on the 2nd of October, 1789, at the Fete of 
the Garde du Corps, so exasperated the people when 
the news of it reached them, that it brought about 
a few days later the savage attack upon the palace. 
In 1855, the theatre was used as the supper-room for 
the grand ball given here in honour of our beloved 
Queen. 

The art collections of Versailles are of vast extent, 
and of very unequal merit ; it is impossible to see 
them all at one visit. The best pictures are by the 
modern painters David, Horace Vernet, Ary Scheffer, 
Delacroix, Delaroche, Philippoteaux, and others. 

Besides the chapel and the theatre, the ground 
floor of the north wing contains a vestibule and 
eleven rooms full of pictures representing historical 
events from the eighth to the eighteenth century ; 
the long Galerie des Tombeaux is filled with casts 
of sepulchres and other monuments. Here are also 
the five richly adorned saloons called the Salles des 
Croisades ; they contain some remarkable modern 
pictures of scenes connected with the Crusades. 
There are seven rooms of paintings in the north 
wing, called the Galerie de Constantine, and among 
them are fine battle-pieces by Horace Vernet ; there 
is also a sculpture gallery, and there are ten more 
rooms full of pictures relating to the early part ol> 
this century. Then come many more rooms filled 
with portraits, medals, and casts ; but the palace is so 
replete with all these so-called art treasures that it 
seems doubtful whether anyone ever had the courage 
and perseverance needed to do justice to them all. 

The most interesting features of the great building 



VERSAILLES 103 

are its state apartments, and the living-rooms of the 
King and Queen ; the Salon de la Guerre ; the Salon 
de la Paix ; the Salle de FOeil de Boeuf, so named 
because of its oval window. This last was the ante- 
room to the bedchamber of Louis Quatorze, and the 
Suisse, or porter, who guarded its entrance door never 
left it ; his bed and other furniture were behind the 
large screen, against which he stood with his formid- 
able halberd. Here assembled the courtiers who had 
the entree of both the grand and the petit lever of the 
King, a privilege which some of them sighed for, some- 
times more than two years before they obtained it 

On the night of the 6th October, 1789, the sentinel 
on duty, struck down at the door of the Queen's 
apartment, cried out to the ladies within, " Save the 
Queen ! " They had but just time to awaken Marie 
Antoinette, and then follow their half-dressed mistress 
across the Oeil de Boeuf to the King's chamber, 
where they all remained till Lafayette arrived from 
Paris in time to save the royal family from the fury 
of the starving mob. 

The Galerie of Louis Quatorze, or des Glaces, is 
a sumptuous room ; it overlooks the gardens and 
fountains. It is very spacious, being 240 feet long, 
35 feet wide, and 40 feet high ; there are in it 
seventeen large windows, and opposite the windows 
are an equal number of great mirrors ; it is richly 
decorated, and has many paintings by Lebrun. The 
ball given in 1855 to our Queen took place here, and 
in this Hall of Mirrors, January, 1871, the King of 
Prussia was proclaimed Emperor of Germany. There 
is another splendid hall in the south wing filled with 



I04 IN PARIS 

battle-pieces and busts; there is also a sculpture 
gallery. On the ground floor of this wing is the hall 
in which the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies 
naeet when they sit together. 

The extensive gardens were laid out for Louis XIV. 
by Lenotre, the most famous landscape gardener 
of his time. They remain much as he left them, 
very stiff and formal in style ; they contain many 
statues, some of which are imitations of the antique, 
while others are the work of modern sculptors. The 
most noteworthy features of the gardens are the 
numerous sheets of water and the elaborate foun- 
tains, profusely decked with statues and other sculp- 
ture. There are the Grandes Eaux and the Petites 
Eaux ; from May till October the big fountains 
usually play on the first Sunday of each month, 
while the little fountains play Sundays and Thurs- 
days, but the exact dates are announced in the 
newspapers. The small fountains begin to play 
about four o'clock, and the big ones at five o'clock. 
The Apollo Fountain and the Frog Fountain are both 
very remarkable. The Bassin de Neptune is the finest 
of all ; the display is both effective and beautiful. 
The water comes from Marly, a few miles to the 
north, near the Seine, where Louis Quatorze caused 
the most elaborate hydraulic machinery to be erected^ 
The fine orangery is close to the palace, and except 
in summer-time, when they stand outside, it contains 
some 1,200 orange trees ; one of them is said to be 
nearly 500 years old. Not far from the orangery 
is the spacious piece of water called Piece d'Eau des 
Suisses. 



FONTAINEBLEAU T05 

There is at the farther end of the gardens a large 
canal in the form of a cross, and nearly a mile long. 
North of this is the Grand Trianon, a house built 
by Louis Quatorze for Madame de Maintenon, in 
order that he might escape from the oppressive 
etiquette of the palace itself Close by is Le Petit 
Trianon, built by Louis Quinze for Madame du 
Barri, so that he might avoid the restraints of 
the Great Trianon ! Marie Antoinette loved the 
Little Trianon, and had it arranged to represent a 
miniature village, with a farmhouse, a parsonage, 
and a dairy, all in miniature ; here she delighted 
to dress herself up as a shepherdess, with her ladies, 
and to fancy that she and they lived the life of the 
peasants without sharing any of their privations. 
She was sitting in the garden of her make-believe 
village, the Little Trianon, on that fatal day of 
October, 1789, when she was told that the Paris 
mob had arrived at the gates of the Palace of 
Versailles. 



CHAPTER XI. 

THE CHATEAU AND FOREST OF 
FONTAINEBLEAU 

Of all the expeditions within easy reach of Paris 
that to Fontainebleau is the most interesting. The 
town is about thirty-seven miles distant, in a south- 
easterly direction, and at a quarter-past nine in the 



io6 IN PARIS 

morning a capital train leaves Paris from the Gare 
de Lyon, on the Boulevard Diderot, not far from the 
Pont d'Austerlitz, and reaches Fontainebleau station 
rather before half- past ten o'clock. Much of the 
journey lies through varied country of considerable 
beauty. 

On the way is Melun, an interesting old town 
finely placed on the Seine, and about nine miles 
from Fontainebleau. Soon after passing Melun the 
line runs into the splendid forest of Fontainebleau. 
At Bois-le-Roi, the station just before Fontainebleau, 
we saw, late in October, masses of roses in full 
bloom. 

An electric tram took us swiftly from the station 
to the Palace of Fontainebleau, about a mile and 
a half distant. We first glided through part of the 
town, which looked clean and bright; it has good 
wide streets, and appears to be a healthy place. 
The town is modern, and contains no buildings of 
interest ; there are upwards of 14,000 inhabitants, 
and several good-sized hotels, but they are expensive. 
There is a manufactory of porcelain and earthen- 
ware. Fontainebleau also deals in wine and grapes. 
The deliciously sweet white grapes are well known, 
and go to Paris and other places in France in great 
quantities ; they do not appear to be grown to any 
great extent in Fontainebleau itself, but come from 
Thomery and other places a few miles off on the 
banks of the Seine. 

Just on the outskirts of the town, to the south- 
west, stands the magnificent and world-famous 
chateau, which the pilgrim to Fontainebleau chiefly 



FONTAINEBLEAU 107 

goes to see. The exterior has no great architectural 
pretensions, but within this is perhaps the most 
splendidly adorned palace in France ; the amount of 
money lavished upon it since the time of Francis I. 
must be prodigious. 

The original chateau, or rather fortified manor- 
house, on this site is said to have been built by 
Robert II. (le Pieux) at the end of the tenth century. 
Louis VIL, nearly tv/o centuries later, appears to have 
added to the old house and used it as a hunting- 
lodge ; after him Philip Augustus and Louis IX. 
(St Louis) spent part of their time there. But 
Francis I. (1515-47) is responsible for the greater 
part of the present palace ; he induced the Italian 
artist, Primaticcio, to design the plans and help in 
the painting of the walls. It is also said that 
Leonardo da Vinci, Benvenuto Cellini, and Andrea 
del Sarto had a hand in the adornment of some of 
the beautiful rooms. Under Henri II. the palace 
was much beautified, and in the time of Henri IV. 
a good deal was added to its structure. It was a 
favourite residence of many of the French sovereigns 
after Francis I., and several of them added to its 
splendour. 

In the present century Napoleon I., Louis Philippe, 
and Napoleon III., all spent large sums upon it. 

Many interesting associations cling about the 
Palace of Fontainebleau and the still older chateau. 
Here were born Philip IV., Henri III., and Louis 
XIII. In 1539 Francis I. held his Court here, and 
entertained the Emperor Charles V. with great 
splendour as he passed through France. Francis 



io8 IN PARIS 

had been advised to imprison the Emperor in return 
for his own imprisonment by Charles in Madrid, 
some years previously ; but the generous King de- 
clined to take such an unfair advantage of his rival. 
During these festivities the Emperor gained the 
goodwill of the mercenary mistress of Francis, 
Madame d'Etampes, by dropping a ring of great 
value into the finger-bowl of perfumed water which 
she presented to him after a banquet. 

In 1685 Louis XIV. signed at Fontainebleau the 
Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, a disastrous blow 
to the wealth and prosperity of France. The Grand 
Conde died in the palace in 1686. In 18 14 Napoleon 
Bonaparte signed his abdication at Fontainebleau, 
and in the following year he marshalled his troops 
when he came back from Elba, before he went forth 
to his final overthrow at Waterloo. 

The palace buildings are broken up into somewhat 
irregular shape. There are five great courts : — 
(i) The Court of the White Horse, so called because 
Catherine de Medicis placed in its centre a cast of 
the statue at Rome of Marcus Aurelius on horseback ; 
the statue is no longer here. This court is also 
called the Court of Adieux, because Bonaparte, after 
signing his abdication, here bade farewell to his 
devoted soldiers of the old guard. (2) The Fountain 
Court (3) The Donjon, or Oval Court. (4) The 
Princes' Court. (5) Henri IV. 's Court, or the Court 
of Offices. 

The principal court is that of the White Horse, 
which forms the general entrance to the palace from 
the town. A picturesque staircase, in the form of 



FONTAINEBLEAU 109 

a horseshoe, built by Lemercier in 1634, leads up 
from this court into the palace, where custodians 
show visitors over it. 

We went first to the left, into the chapel of La 
Trinite, begun by Francis I., and not finished till the 
reign of Henri Quatre ; it has an elaborately painted 
ceiling. Napoleon III. was christened in this chapel. 

Then we mounted to the first floor, and were shown 
the rooms once occupied by the First Napoleon. They 
are sumptuously furnished ; the room which contains 
his bed and its rich hangings has a remarkable 
chimney-piece. In another room is the small circular 
table on which Napoleon is said to have signed his 
abdication. The Salle du Conseil is richly adorned; 
in the Salle du Trone is a beautiful rock-crystal 
chandelier. Some of the wainscotting here, of Louis 
Treize period, is very remarkable. 

A little further on we came to the rooms occupied 
by Marie Antoinette ; they are splendidly furnished. 
The beautiful hangings in her bedroom were given 
to her by the people of Lyons on her marriage with 
the Dauphin, afterwards Louis XVI. The royal 
bridegroom is said to have made the window fasten- 
ings and locks with his own hands. 

After this we came to the Diana Gallery, or 
library, a narrow room more than 250 feet in length, 
built during the reign of Henri IV. Its shelves are 
filled with many thousand volumes, and it is decor- 
ated with paintings by Pujol and Blondel. At the 
far end of it is a splendid Sevres biscuit vase of 
great size. Below the library is the Galerie des Cerfs, 
no longer shown to the public ; it was in this gallery 



no IN PARIS 

that Christina, ex-Queen of Sweden, caused Monal- 
deschi, her chamberlain, to be assassinated during her 
residence at Fontainebleau as the guest of Louis XIV. 
The Grand Monarque seems to have expostulated 
with his sister sovereign, but he did not take any 
proceedings against her. 

We passed through a series of rooms adorned with 
Gobelin and Flemish tapestry and paintings ; then 
through several other rooms : among them was the 
rich Salle des Gardes ; it has a remarkable chimney- 
piece, with a bust of Henri Quatre in its centre. 
Next we came to the truly magnificent Gallery of 
Henri H., also called the Salle des Fetes. This was 
built in the time of Francis I., and the splendid 
decorations were finished under Henri H., the whole 
being well restored in the reign of Louis Philippe. 
It is a hall of grand proportions, with many fine wall 
paintings, chiefly mythological scenes by Primaticcio 
and Niccolo dell' Abbate. The celling, in walnut 
wood, is richly gilded and ornamented. The high 
oak wainscotting Is also very fine ; so is the chimney- 
piece, with Its Doric entablature ; the floor Is In 
choice parquetry. Charming views of the grounds 
can be had from the windows of this, the finest 
apartment In the palace. It is not easy to imagine 
anything more splendid in regard to proportion and 
decoration. It Is nearly lOO feet long, more than 
30 feet wide, and very lofty ; In many places, among 
the ornament, Is the crescent of Diane de Poitiers, 
and D., the Initial letter, of her Christian name, com- 
bined with H. for Henri II. 

Close by is the long gallery of Francis I., built in 



FONTAINEBLEAU in 

1530; another splendid room, also with a very fine 
ceiling in walnut wood. The lower part of the walls 
is panelled, and on this panelling the F. of Francis 
alternates with his emblem of the Salamander. 
Above this is a series of fourteen paintings by Rosso 
Rossi. Between the pictures are sculptures, bas- 
reliefs, and carvings. As a whole, the grand room 
is full of beauty and warmth of colour, but it is not 
so sumptuous as the Salle des Fetes, and the pro- 
portions are not nearly so fine. 

There are many other richly furnished and decor- 
ated rooms ; some of them have costly hangings 
and tapestries. The Galerie des Assiettes is curious, 
its walls being covered with china plates painted with 
views of various places. 

We came out of the palace in a sort of dream, 
bewildered with the beauty and splendour of the 
numerous apartments we had visited. Such a wealth 
of exquisite design and skilful execution, of warm 
colour and rich material, controlled by a supreme 
refinement of taste, can hardly elsewhere be found. 

An archway to the right of the principal entrance 
leads into the Fountain Court, and near the pond, 
on the ground floor, some rooms have been given 
up to a museum of Chinese curios in china, bronze, 
enamel, gems, ivory, lacquer, weapons, etc. Many 
of the articles are choice, and of considerable value. 
The things have been collected in recent years. 

The large pond close by has a pavilion in the 
middle. On the bank is a sort of terrace with stone 
balustrading, and on this visitors love to lean and 
watch the stir among the carp vv^hen they feed them. 



112 IN PARIS 

Many of these carp are very large ; they have been 
famous for years, indeed, it is said for centuries. 
There is a local legend that some of these fish are 
contemporaries of Francis I. ! But though, doubtless, 
some of the finny monsters have lived quietly all 
through the fearful revolutions that have distracted 
France since the great one of 1789, in the days of 
Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, even the most 
credulous of mortals will find it hard to believe 
that these same hoary carp frolicked and swam 
about in the time of the art-loving King, who died, 
it will be remembered, in 1547. To the north-west 
is a more formal garden, laid out in flower-beds, with 
a small square pond in the middle, and a round one 
at the further end. When we were there the square 
pond had been drained, and numbers of large fish 
were vigorously kicking about in the mud. Further 
on stretch the canal and great park. 

The renowned Forest of Fontainebleau is about 
the most beautiful in France ; it is also one of the 
largest. It covers no less than 42,000 acres. In 
days gone by the forest abounded in all sorts of 
game. Deer and wild boar were especially plentiful, 
and stag and boar hunts were frequent here. The 
rocky glades must have been doubly picturesque, 
with these occasional apparitions of horsemen ai^d 
hounds in full chase, especially in the time of 
Francis I. and his immediate successors, in the rich 
costume of the period. The sound of the horn 
and the chorus of the dogs must have wakened up 
to life the deep silence of the woods. Now there is 
hardly any game left; the forest is rarely the scene 







IN THE FOREST OF FONTAINEBLEAU. 



FONTAINEBLEAU 113 

of a hunting party; the more beautiful glades are 
in summer-time frequented by tourists. For many 
years past French and also English landscape 
painters have haunted the grand old forest. They 
sleep and eat at Barbizon, on the north-west, or 
at Marlotte, south-east of the forest ; but they seem 
to lead a sylvan life and spend their days under 
the trees or the shade of their white umbrellas, 
which are to be seen in the loveliest glades. 

The forest completely surrounds the town ; the 
rocks and ravines in the wilder parts have much 
varied beauty ; the trees are chiefly oak, beech, 
and pine. In some parts the trees are young, of 
no great size, but many of the oaks and beeches 
are huge. 

A favourite resort in the forest, and, of the wilder 
glades, about the nearest to the town, is called the 
Rochers et Gorges de Franchard ; it is about three 
miles distant from the chateau. When you start from 
the chateau, you turn to the right ; then to the left 
along the Rue de France, right across the town ; then 
branch to the left along the Route de Milly. About 
a mile from the town a path leads off on the left, 
and the forest becomes wilder and more interesting ; 
three-quarters of a mile or so further, and you come 
to a road called the Route Ronde, leading down 
from the Route de Milly. 

A short distance on the other side of the Route 
Ronde is the Restaurant de Franchard, a chalet in 
the midst of trees, with tables out-of-doors. This is 
said to be the only restaurant in the forest. It is 
possible to have luncheon here, but not advisable; 

H 



114 IN PARIS 

the food is not very good, and the charges are high. 
The rocks and gorge of Franchard begin a few- 
hundred yards beyond the restaurant. The gorge is 
a large hollow, strewn with masses of picturesque, 
lichen-covered boulders. There is much wild beauty 
hereabouts. To the north the land is open for some 
way without trees, but they soon close in, and nothing 
is visible but forest. 

Other fine parts of the forest are the wild Gorges 
et Vallon d'Apremont — these are not far from 
Barbizon — and the Caverne des Brigands. North of 
the town are the Rocher St. Germain and the Vallee 
de la Solle ; east of these, close to the boundary of 
the forest, is the Tour Denecourt. In clear weather, 
the view from this point is said to embrace Paris. 
In the south part of the forest, near Marlotte, are the 
Mare aux Fees and the Gorge aux Loups. You 
may walk for miles along the forest paths without 
meeting a soul ; even on the roads there are very few 
people, and the silence is almost oppressive, but near 
the pine trees the atmosphere is delightful and in- 
vigorating. 

Two French soldiers on horseback overtook us as 
we were walking along the Route de Milly, and 
civilly wished us good day. There was no one else 
in sight, and we were at least a mile from Fontain^- 
bleau, practically alone in the forest. It struck u^ as 
one more instance of the French provincial kindli- 
ness we have, when travelling, so frequently met with. 
Of late the French, as a nation, have been often 
maligned in England, and it is time that this state 
of things ceased. 



THE EXHIBITION OF 1900 115 

The beautiful Forest of Fontainebleau must exercise 
a strong fascination on those who dwell near it. The 
air feels pure and exhilarating, the varied excursions 
are full of absorbing interest, while the roads look 
first rate for cycling. It would take a long time to 
exhaust the rambles of this sylvan spot, for the forest 
is a network of roads and paths. There are vipers 
in some of the wilder glades, it is said, but we did 
not see any. 



CHAPTER XII. 

THE UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION OF 1900 

A GREAT exhibition is no new thing in Paris. For 
more than a hundred years past, national, industrial, 
and universal exhibitions have been held in the 
vivacious city with more or less frequency. The first 
National French Industrial Exhibition took place in 
1798, in the Champ de Mars, very soon after the end 
of the horrors of the Great Revolution. This exhibi- 
tion was a small affair ; the building was of wood, 
and was designed by Frangois Chalgrin, the architect 
who, later on, designed the splendid Arc de Triomphe 
de I'Etoile. At the first exhibition there were 100 
exhibitors, among whom twelve gold medals were 
awarded. 

It is long since we have had an International 
Exhibition in England, but for all that we can claim 
to have been the first to start the long series of 



ii6 IN PARIS 

International Exhibitions with our Great Exhibition 
of 185 1. This was held in a huge glass palace, 
designed by Joseph Paxton, and placed in Hyde 
Park, London. 

The members of the Society of Arts were the 
original promoters of this great show. The Queen 
and the late lamented Prince Consort took the 
greatest possible interest in it, and the Prince gave 
a great deal of time to its organisation. As every- 
one knows, the vast glass building was re-erected 
with alterations at Sydenham, near London, and is 
known as the Crystal Palace. We have been told by 
many Parisians that " le Palais de Crystal," as they 
call it, is one of the things they most admire in 
England. 

Other, but purely French, Industrial Exhibitions 
were held in Paris at the Louvre in 1801 and 1802; 
in the Place des Invalides in 1806; again in the 
Louvre in 18 19, 1823, and during the reign of 
Charles X. In 1834 there was a National Exhibition 
in the Place de la Concorde ; and in the Champs 
Elysees exhibitions were held in 1839, 1844, and 
1849. 

The next International Exhibition to that of Hyde 
Park was held in New York in 1853. 

In 1855 the French held their first International 
Exhibition in the Champs Elysees. The Palais de 
r Industrie (which has recently been destroyed to 
make room for two new Palais des Beaux Arts for 
the forthcoming Exhibition) was built to contain the 
bulk of the exhibits of 1855. The exhibitors 
numbered 23,954. Of these 11,986 came from France 



THE EXHIBITION OF 1900 117 

and her colonies; 857 art and 1,589 industrial 
exhibits were sent by Great Britain. More than 
5,000,000 people visited this exhibition. The French, 
since 1855, have held an International Exhibition in 
Paris every eleven years, except in 1867, when the 
interval was twelve years. 

The second great International Exhibition of Paris 
was in 1867, in the Champ de Mars; there were 
52,000 exhibitors, and 11,000,000 people went to see 
the exhibition. 

The next Paris International Exhibition was on 
a much larger scale, in 1878. It was also held in the 
Champ de Mars, and on part of the Quai d'Orsay. 
The huge crescent-shaped palace of the Trocadero 
was built for this exhibition, and its park was 
created ; these still remain, and are incorporated, by 
the genius of Monsieur Alfred Picard, in the new 
mass of buildings. In 1878 there were 52,835 ex- 
hibitors and over 16,000,000 visitors; the show itself 
stretched over about 100 acres. Between 1862 and 
1885 there have been several exhibitions in London 
There have also been International Exhibitions in 
Vienna, in Philadelphia, in Amsterdam, and in 
Antwerp. 

The last great Paris Exhibition was in 1889, and 
a wonderful show it was. It was held in the Champ 
de Mars, in the Trocadero, and on the Quai d'Orsay; 
to these were added the Esplanade des Invalides 
and the Palais de ITndustrie. The principal new 
buildings constructed for the 1889 exhibition were 
the stupendous Eiffel Tower and the vast Galerie des 
Machines in the Champ de Mars. This exhibition 



ii8 IN PARIS 

of 1889 opened just a century after the beginning of 
the terrible French Revolution ; it was in a way a 
commemoration of that fearful period. Among the 
exhibition buildings was an exact reproduction of 
the famous old Castle of the Bastille. At this 1889 
show there were 55,486 exhibitors and nearly 
26,000,000 visitors. It must have been difficult at 
certain times to lodge all of them within the city. 
But although this exhibition covered nearly 250 
acres of ground, and was far more vast and wonderful 
than anything that had been previously seen, it was 
entirely surpassed in 1893 by the Chicago World's 
Fair ; and large as is the area reserved for the 
Paris Exhibition of 1900, it appears that it will not 
be so vast as that of the gigantic World's Fair at 
Chicago. 

The French look a long way ahead. The exhibition 
of 1889 had hardly closed before the organisation 
of the arrangements for that of 1900 was put in 
motion. Monsieur Alfred Picard, the Commissioner- 
General of the forthcoming Exhibition, was appointed 
to report on the great exhibition of 1889, and the 
result of his investigations was published in ten 
volumes. Monsieur Picard was born at Strasburg in 
1 844 ; he is by profession an engineer, and has helci 
many important posts. In 1870, during the jivar 
with Germany, Monsieur Picard helped to fortify 
Metz. In 1 88 1 he became a member of the Conseil 
d'Etat, and he has presided over the departments 
of Public Works, Agriculture, and Commerce. He 
received a commission from the French Government 
to report as to a suitable site for the Exhibition of 



THE EXHIBITION OF 1900 119 

1900, and he suggested that the site should consist 
of the Champ de Mars, the Trocadero and its 
gardens, the Quai Debilly, the Quai d'Orsay, the 
Esplanade des Invalides, the Quai de la Conference, 
the Cours la Reine, and that part of the Champs 
Elysees on which the Palais de I'lndustrie formerly 
stood, and which forms a triangle, bounded by 
the Cours la Reine, the Avenue d'Antin, and the 
Avenue des Champs Elysees. A space is also 
reserved in the Bois de Vincennes for crowded-out 
exhibits, for auto-car and other such competitions ; 
but the Bois de Vincennes is of course a long way 
off, on the other side of Paris, and will not probably 
attract many visitors. Monsieur Picard's appearance 
seems to assure one that the Exhibition will be a 
supreme success. His face is powerful and rugged, 
full of intelligence and of strong common sense ; the 
mouth denotes a genial sense of humour. It is said 
that the Exhibition will open on the 15th of April, 
and will close on the 5th of November. Millions and 
millions of people will go to see it from all parts 
of the globe. In all its long history Paris will never 
have contained such a multitude, and it will be no 
easy matter to find a lodging, unless this is secured 
beforehand. 

The Exhibition buildings are in a forward state 
of preparation, and they will probably be ready by 
the opening day, but the arrangement of the various 
exhibits may not be completed for some little time 
after the show has begun. 

The Exhibition quarter is really one of the newest 
in Paris, the oldest buildings near, if we except the 



I20 IN PARIS 

Maison Frangois Premier, being the imposing H6tel 
des Invalides, with its splendid gilded dome, and 
the great Ecole Militaire, between the Invalides and 
the Champ de Mars. Nearly all the other surround- 
ing buildings are of recent date. 

There was a good deal of discussion before it was 
finally decided to take down the spacious Palais 
de rindustrie, and to erect in its place two per- 
manent Palaces des Beaux Arts ; also to make a 
new and broad avenue, called Nicolas II., running 
from the Avenue des Champs Elysees between the 
two palaces to the fine new bridge Alexandre III., 
and thus to open a splendid vista right away from 
the Champs Elysees to the golden dome-crowned 
Invalides. The two palaces are named the Grand 
Palais des Beaux Arts and the Petit Palais des 
Beaux Arts. 

The Salon, as the annual exhibition of the works 
of modern painters and sculptors is called, has of 
late years been split up into two divisions, and 
these have been respectively held in the Palais de 
rindustrie and in the Palais des Arts Liberaux in 
the Champ de Mars. The horse show and other ex- 
hibitions were also held in the Palais de ITndustrie, 
but as both these buildings have been demolished, 
all the recent exhibitions have been held in the great 
Galerie des Machines in the Champ de Mars. 

It is intended that the Avenue Nicolas II., the two 
Palais des Beaux Arts, and the Pont Alexandre III. 
shall remain as beautiful and permanent records of 
the Exhibition of 1900. It has been already said 
that the first stone of this bridge was laid by the 




as 
O 

w 

u 

< 
a: 

E- 



< 



< 

Oh 
Q 
< 

Pi 

o 

N 

td 

)— t 



THE EXHIBITION OF 1900 121 

present Czar when he visited Paris in state, October, 
1896. 

The Grand Palais des Beaux Arts is to be used, 
as the Palais de I'lndustrie was, for the Salon, the 
horse show, and some other exhibitions ; while it is 
intended that the Petit Palais des Beaux Arts shall 
be for exhibitions of the works of former masters of 
French art. The principal entrance to the Great 
Exhibition of 1900 is at the south-west corner of 
the Place de la Concorde, a grand Oriental-looking 
erection, called the Monumental Gate, rather over- 
gorgeous in colour, designed by Monsieur Binet. 
The low frieze beside this gate is very remarkable. 
It is called Le Travail, and it represents all kinds 
of labour in a long procession. This is the clever 
work of a young and almost unknown sculptor, 
Monsieur Anatole Guillot. The series of pay en- 
trances at this gate alone is so ingeniously contrived 
that 60,000 persons will be able in the space of one 
hour to take their tickets and pass into the grounds 
of the Exhibition. 

Having entered from the Place de la Concorde, 
we find ourselves on the Cours la Reine and on 
the Quai de la Conference. On our left is the Seine, 
on our right the Petit Palais des Beaux Arts, de- 
signed by Monsieur Girault, the Avenue Nicolas II., 
and the Grand Palais des Beaux Arts, designed by 
Messieurs Deglane, Louvet, and Thomas. The frieze 
here is very fine. The handsome one-arched Pont 
Alexandre III., built by Messieurs Resal and Alby, 
on the left, leads to the Esplanade des Invalides, 
with its double row of Exhibition buildings with 



122 IN PARIS 

the avenue between them, terminated by the grand 
old Invalides. The effect of this is very striking. 
We next come to the Pont des Invahdes ; beyond 
it, on the right, is the pavilion of the Ville de 
Paris, the palaces of Arboriculture, Horticulture, 
des Congres, and Social Economy. On the Quai 
d'Orsay, south bank of the Seine, are the pavilions 
of Foreign Powers, each built by its own nation — 
Italy, Turkey, United States, Austria, Portugal, 
Herzegovina, Peru, Bosnia, Hungary, Persia, Great 
Britain, Belgium, Luxembourg, Norway, Germany, 
Finland, Spain, Bulgaria, Monaco, Sweden, Greece, 
Roumania, Servia, and others. We reach the Pont 
de lAlma, and here, on the right, are the fancy 
buildings called Old Paris. Here, too, are res- 
taurants, the Trocadero gardens and palace, and the 
gardens containing pavilions for Colonial exhibits of 
Foreign Countries and other things. On the opposite 
bank of the river are buildings for Military, Naval, 
and Mercantile exhibits. When we come to the bridge 
d'lena, we have the Trocadero Palace on the right, 
and the gigantic Eiffel Tower across the water on 
the left. Beyond the Pont d'lena, on the right, are 
buildings for the exhibits of the French Colonies 
and Protectorates. On the quay across the river is 
the Forestry, Shooting, and Fishery pavilion. y 

The great Champ de Mars stretches out behind 
the Eiffel Tower, and there we find the chief mass 
of the Exhibition buildings. Two huge galleries, 
each about i,8oo feet in length, run along either 
side of the Champ de Mars, with an open space 
between them. At one end of this space or garden, 



THE EXHIBITION OF 1900 123 

farthest from the Eiffel Tower, is the elaborate 
Palace of Electricity, a marvel of ornate and com- 
plicated construction. This will be one of the most 
attractive features of the Exhibition. The Chateau 
d'Eau is immediately in front of the Electrical 
Palace. There will be a wonderful show of cascades 
here. Behind this palace, at the far end of the 
Champ de Mars, is the old Galerie des Machines, 
in which is to be shown everything connected with 
Agriculture and with Food. The long side galleries 
in the Champ de Mars will contain, on the right 
of the open space as one walks away from the Eiffel 
Tower, exhibits connected with Literature, Art, and 
Science ; Education and Teaching ; Civil Engineer- 
ing and Means of Transport ; and Chemical In- 
dustries. On the left of the open space, in the 
other long gallery, will be exhibits connected with 
Mines and Metallurgy ; Raw Materials, Fabrics, 
Clothing. In the gallery which connects these two 
will be an abundance of all kinds of Machinery. 

There yet remain the fine buildings in the 
Esplanade des Invalides, which will be devoted to 
Decoration, Furniture, and Miscellaneous Industries. 

Besides all the instructive and industrial exhibits, 
there will be no lack of amusing entertainment pro- 
vided for visitors in the Exhibition precincts ; in 
addition to all the countless things of this sort to 
be found in the city at large. 

Great as is the space which is given up to this 
Exhibition, it appears that the amount of room 
allotted to Great Britain will be comparatively very 
small, and that we shall not be able to make a 



124 IN PARIS 

representative show; but it is of course natural 
that France, "who pays the piper, should call the 
tune," and take the lion's share of space in which 
to exhibit her own industries. We appear to be as 
well off as the other nations, so far as space is 
concerned. Germany is to send exhibits for the 
first time since the Franco-German War of 1 870-1, 
and perhaps special allowance in the way of space, 
and other matters, may reasonably be given to her, 
especially as the Emperor William seems to intend 
to visit the Exhibition. 

It appears that the exhibits of foreign nations will 
not be, as heretofore, confined to separate sections, 
but will be mixed with those of the French ; that 
is to say, that a building, in many cases, will con- 
tain exhibits of which half will be French, and the 
remaining half a mixture of exhibits from other 
nations. 

But whatever may be done, so far as this nation 
and others are concerned, there is no doubt that the 
Exhibition of 1900 will be a wonderful sight ; it will 
be full of interesting revelations of the astounding 
progress and discoveries of the last eleven years, and 
it will certainly be as beautiful in taste and arrange- 
ment as our clever, light-hearted, and affable neigh- 
bours can make it 



INDEX 



Abbate, Niccolo dell', no 
Affre, Archbishop, 46 
Ango, Jean d', 14, 17 

— Manoir d', 17 
Apremont, 114 
Arques, Battle of, 17 

— Chateau d', 16 

— River, 16 

— William of, 16 
Asnieres, 98 
Aumale, Due d', 95 

Austria, Archduchess Marie Louise, 
93 

B 
Barbizon, 113 
Bastille, 72, loi 
Baudry, 80 
Beaumarchais, 82 
Belle Ville, 16 
Berneval, 16 
Bernhardt, Sarah, 81 
Biard, 57 
Bismarck, 43 
Boeswillwald, 45 
Bois-le-Roi, 106 
Bourbon, House of, 43 

— Duchess of, 60 
Bracquemont, 16 



Capet, Hugh, 43 
Capetians, 43 
Carloman, 43 
Carlovingians, 42 
Carnot, 44 



Cellini, Benvenuto, 107 
Chantilly, 94 
Charlemagne, 42, 93 
Charles V., Emperor, 107 
Christina of Sweden, no 
Cloud, St., 98 
Clovis, 42 

Conde, le Grand, 94, 108 
Constantius Chlorus, 41, 67 
Custom-house officers, 12 

D 

Dagobert I., 92, 94 
Dalou, 96 

Darboy, Archbishop, 46 
David of Angers, 56 
Delorme, Philibert, 94 
Denecourt, Tour, 114 
Denis, St., 92 
Desmoulins, Camille, 65 
Dieppe, 12 

Ango, Jean d', 14 

Ango, Rue, 17 

Bathing, 14 

Casino, 14 

Castle, 14 

Fishmarket, 15 

Fishwomen, 15 

Grand Rue, or High Street, 15 

Hotels, 13 

St. Jacques, 14 

Le Pollet, 15 

Place Nationale, 13 

Quai Duquesne, 15 

St. Remy, 15 
Duquesne, Admiral, 14 
Diirer, Albert, 53 



125 



126 



IN PARIS 



E 

Empire, First, 43 

— Second, 43 
Etampes, Madame d', 108 

— Charles d', 94 
Etat, Tiers, 100 
Etats Generaux, 100 



Fares from London to Paris, 1 1 

Faure, Felix, 44 

Flandrin, Hippolyte, 54, 57, 58 

Fontainebleau, 105 

Fouquet, 96 

Franchard, 113 

Fran5ois Premier, 34, 61, 94, 107, 

109, no, 112 
Fredegonde, 94 



Gamier, Charles, 79 

Gibbon, 42 

Goujon, Jean, 34, 77, 94 

Grevy, Jules, 44 

Guesclin, Bertrand du, 94, lOi 

H 

Henri Deux, 94, 107, no 

— Trois, 99, 107 

— Quatre, 14, 17, 43, 52, 61, 93, 

96, 107, no 

Statue of, 38 

Henry VI. of England, 47 

J 
James V, of Scotland, 68 
Joan of Arc, 19 
Julian the Apostate, 41 
Julius Csesar, 41 
Juste, Jean, 94 



Lafayette, 103 
Lassus, 48 
Lebrun, 103 
Lemercier, 109 



Lenoir, Alexandre, 93 
Lenotre, 104 
Leonardo da Vinci, 107 
London, Brighton, and South 

Coast Railway, 10 
Loubet, 44 
Louis VI. , le Gros, 93 

— VIL, 107 

— IX. , St. Louis, 46, 48, 93, 107 

— XL, 92 

— XII., 94 

— XIII., 100, 107 

— XIV., 61, 69, 72, 73, 95, 96, 

100, loi, 103-5, io8j no 

— XV., 97, loi, 105 

— XVI., 63, 66, 82, 100, loi, 109, 

-XVm.,43,93 

— Philippe, 43, 49, loi, 107, no 
Louise, Duchess of Angouleme, 86 

— Madame, 93 
Lutetia, 41 

M 

Macmahon, Marshall, 44 

Mansard, 100 

Marie Antoinette, 63, 98, 103, 105, 

109, 112 
Marlotte, 113 
Mary Tudor, 68 
Mayenne, 17 
Medicis, Catherine de, 61, 63, 86, 

94, 108 

— Marie de, 68 
Melun, 106 
Merovingians, 42 
Mirabeau, 96 
Montreuil, 97 

N / 

Nantes, Edict of, 108 
Napoleon I., Bonaparte, 43, 46, 

47, 55, 87, 93, 98, 107, 108, 

109 

— IIL, 43, 60, 61, 73, 88, 93, 99, 

107, 109 
National Assembly, loo 

— Convention, 47 



INDEX 



127 



Neckar, 100 

Newhaven to Dieppe 10 

O 
Orleans, House of, 43 



Paris, 20 

Anglers, 38, 75 

Arc de I'Etoile, 36, 87 

Auteuil, 33 

— Courses d', 91 
Avenue de I'Alma, 59 

— d'Antin, 119. [90 

— du Bois de Boulogne, 73, 87, 

— des Champs Elysees, 36, 87 

— de Friedland, "jt,, 87 

— de la Grande Armee, 87, 8S, 

— Hoche, 87 

— d'lena, 58 

— de Neuilly, 89 

— Nicolas II., 120 

— de rOpera, 79 
Bal Bullier, 84 

St. Bartholomew's Eve, 52 
Bercy Wine Stores, 40 
Bibliotheque Nationale, 77 

— de I'Arsenal, 78 

— Ste. Genevieve, 78 

— Mazarine, 78 

— de la Ville, 78 
Bois de Boulogne, 87 
Bon Marche, 31, 36 
Boulevards, les Grands, 72 
Boulevard Beaumarchais, 73 

— des Capucines, 21, 73 

— St. Denis, 73 

— Diderot, 31 

— St. Germain, 57, 67, 72 

— Haussmann, 21, 73 

— Henri Quatre, 39, 78 

— des Italiens, 21, 73 

— de la Madeleine, 73 

— de Magenta, 53 

— Malesherbes, 54 

— St. Michel, 56, 68, 73 



Paris — 

Boulevard Montmartre, 73 

— du Mont Parnasse, 59 

— Poissoniere, 73 

— de Sebastopol, 52, 73 

— de Strasbourg, y^ 
Brasseries, 30 
Bridges, 32 

Pont Alexandre III., 35, 120, 

— de I'Alma, 34, 12^ [121 

— de TArcheveche, 39 

— dArcole, 39 

— des Arts, 37, 75 

— d'Austerlitz, 40 

— dAuteuil, t,^ 

— de Bercy, 40 

— du Carrousel, 36 

— au Change, 39 

— de la Concorde, 35 

— de Conflans or d'lviy, 40 

— au Double, 39 

— de Crenelle, 33 

— d'lena, 33 

— des Invalides, 34, 122 

— St. Louis, 39 

• — Louis Philippe, 39 

— Marie, 39 

— St. Michel, 39 

— Mirabeau, 33 

— National, 40 

— Neuf, 38 

— Notre Dame, 39 

— de Passy, 33 

— Petit, 39 

— Royal, 36 

— de Solferino, 36 

— Sully, 39 

— de Tolbiac, 40 

— de la Tournelle, 39 
British Embassy, 60 
Buttes Chaumont, 97 
Cafes, 29 

Carnavalet, Musee, 76 
Carriages, 32, 74 
Catacombs, 85 
Cemetery Pere-la- Chaise, 78 

— Montmartre, 78 

— Mont Parnasse, 78 



128 



IN PARIS 



Paris, Chamber of Deputies or 
Palais Bourbon, 35 

Champ de Mars, 33, 122 

Champs Elysees, 36, 87, 89, 1 19, 
120 

Chaussee d'Antin, 'j6 

Churches, 44, 51 
American, 59 
St. Augustin, 54 
Ste. Chapelle, 44, 47 
Ste. Clotilde, 58 
English, 58 

St. Etienne du Mont, 57 
St. Eustache, 53 [51 

St. Germain I'Auxerrois, 38, 
St. Germain des Pres, 58 
St. Gervais and St. Protais, 

53 

St. Jacques, Tower of, 52 

Madeleine, 21, 36, 54 

Notre Dame, 39, 44 

Pantheon, 55 

St. Roch, 55 

St. Severin, 57 

St. Sulpice, 57 

La Trinite, 54 

St. Vincent de Paul, 54 
Climate, 22 

Cluny, Musee or Hotel de, 6*] 
Colonial Ministry, 63 
Comestible shops, 26 [65 

Communists, 44, 47, 49, 62, 63, 
Conciergerie, 38, 44, 51 
Confectioners, 30 
Conseil d'Etat, 64 
Cours la Reine, 34, 119, 121 
Cremeries, 30 
Duval restaurants, 28 
Ecole des Beaux Arts, 36 
Ecole Militaire, 120 
Eiffel Tower, 33, 117, 122 
Esplanade des Invalides, 35, 

117, 121, 123 
Eve of St. Bartholomew, 52 
Exhibition, Universal, 115 
Agricultural Exhibits, 123 
Art, 121, 123 
Art Palaces, 121 



Paris, Exhibition, Universal- 
Chateau d'Eau, 123 
Chemical Exhibits, 123 
Clothing ,, 123 

Colonial ,, 122 

Decoration ,, 123 
Education ,, 123 
Electrical ,, 123 
Engineering ,, 123 
Fabrics ,, 123 

Fishing , , 122 

Food , , 1 23 

Foreign Pavilions, 122 
Forestry Exhibits, 122 
Furniture ,, 123 

Horticultural ,, 122 
Literary ,, 123 

Machinery ,, 123 
Mercantile ,, 122 
Metallurgical „ 123 
Military ,, 122 

Mineral ,, 123 

Miscellaneous „ 123 
Monumental Gate, 36, 121 
Naval Exhibits, 122 
Old Paris, 122. 
Scientific Exhibits, 123 
Social Economy Palace, 122 
Faubourg St. Antoine, 'jS 

— St. Germain, 76 

— St. Honore, 76 
Financial Ministry, 62 
Flower Market, 39, 44, 51 
Folies Bergere, 83 
Foreign Ministry, 35 
Fortifications, 72 

Fruit shops, 30 

Galerie des Machines, 117, 123 

Garde Meuble de I'Etat, 34 

Gardiens de la paix, 74 "'^ 

German Embassy, 36 

Grand et Petit Palais des Beaux 

Arts, 34, 120, 121 
Halles Centrales, 53 
Halle aux Vins, 40 
Hotels, 22-25 
Hotel de Cluny, 6y 

— Dieu, 39, 44, 51 



INDEX 



129 



Paris, Hotel des Invalides, 35, 69, 
120 

— des Monnaies, the Mint, 37 

— de Sens, 67 

— de Ville, 39, 65 
He de la Cite, 37, 41 

— des Cygnes (of the Swans), 

33 

— St. Louis, 39, 75 
Institut de France, 37 
Jardin d'Acclimatation, 89 
Jardin des Plantes, 40 
Lodgings, 26 [91 
Longchamp, Hippodrome de, 
Louvre, 37, 60 

— new, 36 

— Galerie d'Apollon, 62 

— Grands Magasins du, 31 

— Salon Carre, 62 
Luxembourg, Gardens, 69 

— Museum, 68 

— Palace, 68 

— Petit, 68 

Lycee Henri Quatre, 76 

— Louis-le-Grand, 76 
Magasins Generaux des Vins, 40 
Maison Francois Premier, 34 
Marais, The, 67 

Marine Ministry, 35 
Moliere Fountain, 78 
Morgue, 39, 44, 51 
Neuilly, 91 
Newspapers, 31 
Nouveau Cirque, 84 
Octroi, 21 
Olympia, 83 
Palaces, 59 
Palais Bourbon, 35 

— de I'Elysee, 59 

— Grand, des Beaux Arts, 34, 

120 121 [121 

— de rindustrie, ^5, 116, 120, 
~ de Justice, 38, 44, 47, 49 

— de la Legion d'PIonneur, 36 

— du Louvre, 60 

— du Luxembourg, 68 

— Petit, des Beaux Arts, 34, 

120, 121 



Paris, Palais Royal, 60, 64 

— des Thermes, 41, 67 

— du Trocadero, 33, 117, 122 

— des Tuileries, 36, 60, 62 
Pare des Buttes Chaumont, 97 

— de Monceau, 87 
Passy, 33 

Pavilion de Flore, 36, 63 
Place de la Bastille, 39, 72 

— Boieldieu, 83 

— du Carrousel, 36, 86 

— de la Concorde, 35, 63, 121 

— Dauphine, 50 

— Denfert-Rochereau, 73 

— Diderot, 40 

— de I'Etoile, 87 

— de la Fayette, 54 

— de r Hotel de Ville, 66 

— Lobau, 53 

— du Louvre, 96 

— de la Nation, 96 

— de I'Odeon, 68 

— de rOpera, 80 

— Valhubert, 40 
Poodle shearers, 75 
Population, 21 
Porte St. Denis, 73 

— Maillot, 88 

— St. Martin, 73 

— de Neuilly, 90 
Prefecture de Police, 44, 51 
Quai St. Bernard, 40 

— de la Conference, 119, 121 

— Debilly, 119 

— d'Orsay, 117, 119, 122 

— Voltaire, 36 
Quartier Latin, 76 
Races, 85 

Rafts, 75 
Railways, 31 
Gare de I'Est, 31 

— St. Lazare, 20, 31 

— - de Lvon, 31, io6 

— du Luxembourg, 31 

— Montparnasse, 31 

— du Nord, 21, 31, 92 

— d' Orleans, 31, 40 

— de Vincennes, 31 



I30 



IN PARIS 



Paris, Gare de Petite Ceinture, 31 
Red Mass, 49 
Restaurants, 27 
Roman Palaces, 41, 49, 67 
Sewers, 22, 85 
Shops, 30 
Sorbonne, or University, 56, 72, 

76 
Steamers, 32 
Streets, 70, 85 

Rue d'Aguesseau, 59 

— St. Antoine, 77 

— Auguste Vacquerie, 58 

— du Bac, 36 

— Bayard, 34 

— de Belzunce, 53 

— Bonaparte, 58 

— de Chateaudun, 54 

— de Conde, 68 

— du DatJte, 67 

— St. Denis, 53 

— du Faubourg St. Denis, 

53 

— de la Fayette, 21, 53 

— Figuier, 66 

— de la Grande Chaumiere, 

59 

— des Halles, 53 

— St. Honore, 55 

— du Faubourg St. Honore, 
60 

— de rH6tel de Ville, 66 

— St. Jacques, 57 

— St. Lazare, 54 

— de la Pepiniere, 54 

— Racine, 68 

— de Richelieu, 77 

— de Rivoli, 52, 77 

— Royale, 36, 55 

— Sevigne, 77 

— Soufflot, 56 

— de Sully, 78 

— de Turbigo, 53 

— de Vaugirard, 68 
Theatre des Bouffes Parisiens, 83 

— des Folies Dramatiques, 83 

— Fran9ais, 60, 81 

— du Gymnase, 83 



Paris, Theatre de I'Odeon, 83 

— de rOpera, 21, 79 

— de rOpera Comique, 83 

— du Palais Royal, 83 

— Porte St. Martin, 83 

— Sarah Bernhardt, 83 

— des Varietes, 83 

— du Vaudeville, 83 
Tobacco Manufactory, 34 
Tribunal de Commerce, 39, 44, 

51 

Tuileries, 36, 60, 62 

— Gardens, 36, 63 , 86 

— Pavilion de Flore, 36, 63 
University, or Sorbonne, 56, 72, 

76 

— Venus of Milo, 62 
Parisea Civitas, Council of, 42 
Parisii, The, 41 

Pepin k. Bref, 42 
Perier, Casimir, ^^4 
Perrault, 61 
Philip Augustus, 61, 107 

— IV., 107 

-VI., 43 

Picard, Alfred, 117, 1 18 

Pierre de Montereau, 48 

Pilon, Germain, 94 

Poitiers, Diane de, 34, i lO 

Pompadour, Madame de, 60, lOI 

Pourville, 17 

Primaticcio, 107, iio 

Puys, 16 

— Cite des Limes, or Camp de 

Cesar, 16 



R 

Republic, First, 43 

— Second, 43 

— Third, 43 

Retz, Cardinal dc. 96 

Robert II., le Pieux, 107 

Rossi, Rosso, III 

Rouen, 18 
Cathedral, 19 
Hotel Bourgtheroude, 19 
Hotel de la Poste, 19 



INDEX 



Rouen, St. Maclou, 19 
Mont St. Catherine, 19 
Notre Dame du Bon Secours, 

20 
St. Ouen, 19 
Palais de Justice, 19 
Place de la Pucelle, 19 
Tour de la Grosse Horloge, 19 
Tour de St. Romain, 19 



Sancerre, Louis de, 94 
Sarto, Andrea del, 107 
Sedan, Battle of, 43 
Seine, River, 19, 20, 32, 75 
Sevres, 99 

Sibour, Archbishop, 46 
Soufflot, 56 
Suger. Abbot, 93 
Suresnes, 98 
Sussex f steamer, II 



r 

Thiers, 44 
Tiers Etat, 100 
Trianon, Grand, -.05 

— Petit, 105 

V 

Valois, House of, 43 
Varengeville, 17 

— Church of, 18 
Vatel, 95 

Vernet, Horace, 102 

Vernon, 20 

Versailles, 98, 99 

Victoria, Queen, 99.. 10?, 103, 116 

Vincennes, 96 

Viollet-le-Duc, 45, 4S, 94 

W 
William the Conqueror, 16 
William I., Germaii Emperor, lOi, 
IC3 



L* C* Page and Company ^s 
Announcement of 
List of New Fiction* 

Philip WinWOOd. (35th thousand.) A Sketch of 
THE Domestic History of an American Captain in 
THE War of Independence, embracing events that 

OCCURRED between AND DURING THE YEARS 1 763 AND 

1785 IN New York and London. Written by his 
Enemy in War, Herbert Russell, Lieutenant in the 
Loyalist Forces. Presented anew by Robert Neilson 
Stephens, author of "A Gentleman Player," "An Enemy to 
the King," etc. 

With six full-page illustrations by E. W. D. Hamilton. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 400 pages . . . ^1.50 

" One of the most stirring and remarkable romances that has been published in a 
long while, and its episodes, incidents, and actions are as interesting and agreeable as 
they are vivid and dramatic. . . . The print, illustrations, binding, etc., are worthy 
of the tale, and the author and his publishers are to be congratulated on a literary 
work of fiction which is as wholesome as it is winsome, as fresh and artistic as it is 
interesting and entertaining from first io last paragraph." — Bosiofi Thiies. 

Breaking the Shackles. By frank barrett. 

Author of " A Set of Rogues." 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 350 pages . $1.50 

" The story opens well, and maintains its excellence throughout. . . . The 
author's triumph is the greater in the unquestionable interest and novelty which he 
achieves. The pictures of prison life are most vivid, and the story of the escape 
most thrilling." — TJie Freeman- s Jotcrual, Lo7idon. 

The Progress of Pauline Kessler. By 

Frederic Carrel. 
Author of " Adventures of John Johns." 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 350 pages . li-SO 

A novel that will be widely read and much discussed. A power- 
ful sketch of an adventuress who has much of the Becky Sharpe in 
her. The story is crisply written and told with directness and in- 
sight into the ways of social and political life. The characters are 
strong types of the class to which they belong. 



L. C. PAGE AND COMPANY S 



Ada Vernham, Actress. By richard marsh. 

Author of " Frivolities," " Tom Ossington's Ghost," etc. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 300 pages . ^1.50 

This is a new book by the author of " Frivolities," which was 
extremely well received last season. It deals with the inside life of 
the London stage, and is of absorbing interest. 

The Wallet of Kai Lung. By ernest bramah. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 350 pages . $i-50 

This is the first book of a new writer, and is exceedingly well 
done. It deals with the fortunes of a Chinese professional story- 
teller, who meets with many surprising adventures. The style 
suggests somewhat the rich Oriental coloring of the Arabian 
Nights. 

Edward Barry : south sea pearler. By louis 

Becke. 
Author of " By Reef and Palm," " Ridan, the Devil," etc. 
With four full-page illustrations by H. C. Edwards. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 300 pages . $1.50 

An exceedingly interesting story of sea life and adventure, the 
scene of which is laid in the Lagoon Islands of the Pacific. 

This is the first complete novel from the pen of Mr. Becke, and 
readers of his collections of short stories will quickly recognize that 
the author can write a novel that will grip the reader. Strong, and 
even tragic, as is his novel in the main, " Edward Barry " has a 
happy ending, and woman's love and devotion are strongly por- 
trayed. 

Unto the Heights of Simplicity. By jo 

HANNES ReIMERS. , 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . ^1.25 

We take pleasure in introducing to the reading public a writer of 
unique charni and individuality. His style is notable for its quaint 
poetic idiom and subtle imaginative flavor. In the present story, he 
treats with strength and reticence of the relation of the sexes and 
the problem of marriage. Certain social abuses and false standards 
of morality are attacked with great vigor, yet the plot is so interest- 
ing for its own sake that the book gives no suspicion of being a 
problem novel. The descriptions of natural scenery are idylhc in 
their charm, and form a fitting background for the love story. 



LIST OF NEW FICTION 



The Black Terror, a romance of Russia. By John 
K. Leys. 
With frontispiece by Victor A. Searles. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 350 pages . . . ^1.50 

A stirring tale of the present day, presenting in a new light the 
aims and objects of the Nihilists. The story is so vivid and true to 
life that it might easily be considered a history of political intrigue 
in Russia, disguised as a novel, while its startling incidents and 
strange denouement would only confirm the old adage that " truth 
is stranger than fiction," and that great historical events may be 
traced to apparently insignificant causes. The hero of the story 
is a young Englishman, whose startling resemblance to the Czar is 
taken advantage of by the NihiUsts for the furtherance of their 
plans. 

The Baron's Sons. By maurus jokai. 

Author of "Black Diamonds," "The Green Book," "Pretty 
Michal," etc. Translated by Percy F. Bicknell. 

Library i2mo, cloth ' decorative, with photogravure 

portrait of the author, 350 pages .... j^i.50 

An exceedingly interesting romance of the revolution of 1848, 
the scene of which is laid at the courts of St. Petersburg, Moscow, 
and Vienna, and in the armies of the Austrians and Hungarians. 
It follows the fortunes of three young Hungarian noblemen, w^hose 
careers are involved in the historical incidents of the time. The 
story is told with all of Jokai's dash and vigor, and is exceedingly 
interesting. This romance has been translated for us directly from 
the Hungarian, and never has been issued hitherto in English. 



Slaves of Chance. By ferrier langworthy. 

With five portraits of the heroines, from original drawings by 

Hiel. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 350 pages . $i-SO 

As a study of some of the realities of London life, this novel is 
one of notable merit. The slaves of chance, and, it might be added, 
of temptation, are five pretty girls, the daughters of a pretty widow, 
whose means are scarcely sufficient, even living as they do, in a 
quiet way and in a quiet London street, to make both ends meet. 
Dealing, as he does, with many sides of London life, the writer 
sketches varied types of character, and his creations are cleverly 
defined. He tells an interesting tale with delicacy and in a fresh, 
attractive style. 



L. C. PAGE AND COMPANY S 



Her Boston Experiences. By Margaret allston 

(nom de plume). 

With eighteen full-page illustrations from drawings by Frank 
O. Small, and from photographs taken especially for the 
book. 

Small i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 225 pages . ^1.25 

A most interesting and vivacious tale, dealing with society life 
at the Hub, with perhaps a tinge of the flavor of Vagabondia. The 
story has appeared serially in The Ladies' Home Journal, where it 
was received with marked success. We are not as yet at liberty to 
give the true name of the author, who hides her identity under the 
pen name, Margaret Allston, but she is well known in literature. 

Memory Street. By martha baker dunn. 

Author of " The Sleeping Beauty," etc. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . ^1-25 

An exceedingly beautiful story, delineating New England life and 
character. The style and interest will compare favorably with the 
work of such writers as Mary E. Wilkins, Kate Douglas Wiggin, 
and Sarah Orne Jewett. The author has been a constant con- 
tributor to the leading magazines, and the interest of her previous 
work will assure welcome for her first novel. 

Winifred, a story of the chalk cliffs. By S. 
Baring Gould. 
Author of " Mehala," etc. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, illustrated, 350 pages . ^1.50 

A striking novel of English life in the eighteenth century by this 
well known writer. The scene is laid partly in rural Devonshire, 
and partly in aristocratic London circles. 

At the Court of the King : being romances of^ 

France. By G. Hembert Westley, editor of " For Love's 

Sweet Sake." 
With a photogravure frontispiece from an original drawing. 
Library 1 2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . $1-25 

Despite the prophecies of some literary experts, the historical 
romance is still on the high tide of popular favor, as exemplified by 
many recent successes. We feel justified, consequently, in issuing 
these stirring romances of intrigue and adventure, love and war, at 
the Courts of the French Kings. 



LIST OF NEW FICTION 



Qod'S Rebel. By Hulbert fuller. 
Author of '* Vivian of Virginia." 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 375 pages . . . $1.25 

A powerful story of sociological questions. The scene is laid in 
Chicago, the hero being a professor in " Rockland University," 
whose protest against the unequal distribution of wealth and the 
wretched condition of workmen gains for him the enmity of the 
" Savior Oil Company," through whose influence he loses his posi- 
tion. His after career as a leader of laborers who are fighting 
to obtain their rights is described with great earnestness. The 
character drawing is vigorous and varied, and the romantic plot 
holds the interest throughout. The Albajiy Journal is right in 
pronouncing this novel " an unusually strong story." It can hardly 
fail to command an immense reading public. 

A Qeorgian Actress. By Pauline Bradford Mackie. 
Author of " Mademoiselle de Berny," " Ye Lyttle Salem 

Maide," etc. 
With four full-page illustrations from drawings by E. W. D. 

Hamilton. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 300 pages . $1.50 

An interesting romance of the days of George III., dealing with 
the life and adventures of a fair and talented young play-actress, 
the scene of which is laid in England and America. The success of 
Miss Mackie's previous books will justify our prediction that a new 
volume will receive an instant welcome. 



Qod — The King — fly Brother, a romance. 

By Mary F. Nixon. 
Author of " With a Pessimist in Spain," " A Harp of Many 

Chords," etc. 
With a frontispiece by H. C. Edwards. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . $1-25 

An historical tale, dealing with the romantic period of Edward 
the Black Prince. The scene is laid for the most part in the 
sunny land of Spain, during the reign of Pedro the Cruel — 
the ally in war of the Black Prince. The well-told story records 
the adventures of two young English knight-errants, twin brothers, 
whose family motto gives the title to the book. The Spanish maid, 
the heroine of the romance, is a deUghtful characterization, and the 
love story, with its surprising yet logical denouement, is enthralling. 



L. C. PAGE AND COMPANY'S 



Punchinello. By Florence Stuart. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 325 pages . $1.50 

A love story of intense power and pathos. The hero is a hunch- 
back (Punchinello), who wins the love of a beautiful young girl. 
Her sudden death, due indirectly to his jealousy, and the discovery 
that she had never faltered in her love for him, combine to unbalance 
his mind. The poetic style relieves the sadness of the story, and 
the reader is impressed with the power and brilliancy of its concep- 
tion, as well as with the beauty and grace of the execution. 

The Golden Fleece, Translated from the French of 
Amedee Achard, author of "The Huguenot's Love," etc. 
Illustrated by Victor A. Searles. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, illustrated, 450 pages . $i-5o 

Amedee Achard was a contemporary writer of Dumas, and his 
romances are very similar to those of that great writer. " The 
Golden Fleece " compares favorably with " The Three Musketeers " 
and the other D'Artagnan romances. The story relates the adven- 
tures of a young Gascon gentleman, an officer in the army sent by 
Louis XIV. to assist the Austrians in repelling the Turkish Invasion 
under the celebrated Achmet Kiuperli. 

The Good Ship York. By w. clark russell. 

Author of " The Wreck of the Grosvenor," " A Sailor's Sweet- 
heart," etc. 
Library 12 mo, cloth decorative, illustrated, 350 pages $1 50 

A romantic and exciting sea tale, equal to the best work of this 
famous writer, relating the momentous voyage of the clipper ship 
Vor^, and the adventures that befell Julia Armstrong, a passenger, 
and George Hardy, the chief mate. 

" Mr. Russell has no rival in the line of marine fiction." — Mail and Express. 

Tom Ossington's Ghost. By richard marsh^^ 

Author of " Frivolities," " Ada Vernham, Actress," etc. Illus- 
trated by Harold Pifford. 
Library 12 mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 325 pages . ^1.50 

" I read ' Tom Ossington's Ghost ' the other night, and was afraid to go up-stairs 
in the dark after it." — Trtdh. 

"An entrancing book, but people with weak nerves had better not read it at 
night." — To-day. 

' ' Mr. Marsh has been inspired by an entirely original idea, and has worked it out 
with great ingenuity. We like the weird but not repulsive story better than anything 
he has ever done." — World. 



LIST OF NEW FICTION 



The Glory and Sorrow of Norwich. By 

M. M. Blake. 
Author of " The Blues and the Brigands," etc., etc., with 

twelve full-page illustrations. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 315 pages . $1.50 

The hero of this romance, Sir John de Reppes, is an actual 
personage, and throughout the characters and incidents are instinct 
with the spirit of the age, as related in the chronicles of Froissart. 
Its main claim for attention, however, is in the graphic representa- 
tion of the age of chivalry which it gives, forming a series of brilliant 
and fascinating pictures of mediaeval England, its habits of thought 
and manner of life, which live in the mind for many a day after 
perusal, and assist to a clearer conception of what is one of the most 
charming and picturesque epochs of history. 

The flistress of flaidenwood. By hulbert 

Fuller. 
Author of " Vivian of Virginia," " God's Rebel," etc. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 350 pages . . . $i-50 
A stirring historical romance of the American Revolution, the 
scene of w^hich for the most part being laid in and about the debatable 
ground in the vicinity of New York City. 

Dauntless, a Tale of a lost cause. By Captain Ewan 
Martin. 
Author of " The Knight of King's Guard." 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 400 pages, illustrated . ^i-S© 

A stirring romance of the days of Charles I. and Cromwell in 
England and Ireland. In its general character the book invites 
comparison with Scott's " Waverley." It well sustains the reputa- 
tion gained by Captain Martin from " The Knight of King's Guard." 

The Flame of Life. (Il Fuoco.) Translated from 

the Italian of Gabriel D'Annunzio, author of " Triumph of 

Death," etc., by Kassandra Vivaria, author of "Via 

Lucis." 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 350 pages . . • $i-S° 

This is the first volume in the Third Trilogy, "The Romances 
of the Pomegranate," of the three announced by the great Italian 
writer. We were fortunate in securing the book, and also in securing 
the services as translator of the talented author of " Via Lucis," 
herself an Italian by birth. 



Selections from 

L* C* Page and Company^s 

List of Fiction^ 

An Enemy to the King, {Thirtieth Thousand.) 

From the Recently Discovered Memoirs of the 
SiEUR de la Tournoire. By Robert Neilson Ste- 
phens. 

Illustrated by H. De M. Young. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, 460 pages . $1-50 

" Brilliant as a play ; it is equally brilliant as a romantic novel." — Philadelphia 
Press. 

" Those who love chivalry, fighting, and intrigue will find it, and of good quality, 
in this book." — New York Critic. 

The Continental Dragoon. {Eighteenth Thousand.) 

A Romance of Philipse Manor House, in 1778, By 

Robert Neilson ^Stephens. 

Author of " An Enemy to the King." 

Illustrated by H. C. Edwards. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . $1.50 

" It has the sterling qualities of strong dramatic writing, and ranks among the 
most spirited and ably written historical romances of the season. An impulsive ap- 
preciation of a soldier who is a soldier, a man who is a man, a hero who is a hero, is 
one of the most captivating of Mr. Stephens's charms of manner and style." — 
Boston Herald. 

The Road to Paris. {Sixteenth Thousand.) By Robert 
Neilson Stephens. 
Author of " An Enemy to the King," " The Continental Dra- 
goon," etc. 
Illustrated by H. C. Edwards. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 500 pages . . . $1-5^ 

" Vivid and picturesque in style, well conceived and full of action, the novel is 
absorbing from cover to cover." — Philadelphia Public Ledger. 

" In the line of historical romance, few books of the season will equal Robert 
Neilson Stephens's ' The Road to Paris.' " — Citicijmaii Times-Star. 



L. C. PAGE AND COMPANY'S 



A Qentleman Player. {Thirty-fifth Thousand) his 

Adventures on a Secret Mission for Queen Eliza- 
beth. By Robert Neilson Stephens. 

Author of " An Enemy to the King," " The Continental Dra- 
goon," " The Road to Paris," etc. 

Illustrated by Frank T. Merrill. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 450 pages . . . $1.50 

"A_ thrilling historical romance. ... It is a well-told tale of mingled romance 
and history, and the reader throughout unconsciously joins in the flight and thrills 
with the excitement of the dangers and adventures that befall the fugitives." — 
Chicago Tribune. 

" ' A Gentleman Player ' is well conceived and well told." — Boston Journal. 

Rose a Charlitte. {Eighth Thousand) An Acadien 

Romance. By Marshall Saunders. 

Author of " Beautiful Joe," etc. 

Illustrated by H. De M. Young. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 500 pages . . . $i-50 

"A very fine novel we unhesitatingly pronounce it . . . one of the books that 
stamp themselves at once upon the imagination and remain imbedded in the memory 
long after the covers are closed." — Literary World, Boston. 



Deficient Saints, a tale of Maine. By Marshall 

Saunders. 

Author of " Rose a Charlitte," " Beautiful Joe," etc. 

Illustrated by Frank T. Merrill. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 400 pages . . . $1.50 

" The tale is altogether delightful ; it is vitally charming and expresses a quiet 
power that sparkles with all sorts of versatile beauty." — Boston Ideas. 



Her Sailor, a novel. By Marshall Saunders. ^ 

Author of " Rose a Charlitte," '* Beautiful Joe," etc. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, illustrated, 325 pages ^^1-25 

A story of modern life of great charm and pathos, dealing with 
the love affairs of an American girl and a naval officer. 

"A love story, refreshing and sweet." — Utica Herald. 

" The wayward petulance of the maiden, who half-resents the matter-of-course 
wooing and wedding, her graceful coquetry, and final capitulation are prettily told, 
making a fine character sketch and an entertaining story." — Bookseller, Chicago, 



LIST OF FICTION 



Pretty Michal. a romance of Hungary. By Maurus 

JOKAI. 

Author of " Black Diamonds," " The Green Book," « Midst the 
Wild Carpathians," etc. 

Authorized translation by R. Nisbet Bain. 

Illustrated with a photogravure frontispiece of the great Mag- 
yar writer. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 325 pages . . . ^1.50 

" It is at once a spirited tale of * border chivalry,' a charming love story full of 
genuine poetry, and a graphic picture of life in a country and at a period both equally 
new to English readers." — Literary World, London. 

Midst the Wild Carpathians. By maurus 

JOKAI. 

Author of *' Black Diamonds," " The Lion of Janina," etc. 

Authorized translation by R. Nisbet Bain. 

Illustrated by J. W. Kennedy. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . j^i.25 

"The story is absorbingly interesting and displays all the virility of Jokai's 
powers, his genius of description, his keenness of characterization, his subtlety of 
humor, and his consummate art in the progression of the novel from one apparent 
climax to another." — Chicago Evening Post. 

In Kings' Houses, a romance of the reign of 

Queen Anne. By Julia C. R. Dorr. 

Author of " A Cathedral Pilgrimage," etc. 

Illustrated by Frank T. Merrill. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 400 pages . . . $1.50 

_ " We close the book with a wish that the author may write more romances of the 
history of England which she knows so well." — Bookman, New York. 

"A fine strong story which is a relief to come upon. Related with charming, 
simple art." — Philadelphia Public Ledger. 

Omar the Tentmaker. a romance of old 

Persia. By Nathan Haskell Dole. 

Illustrated by F. T. Merrill. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 350 pages . . . $i-5o 

"The story itself is beautiful and it is beautifully written. It possesses the true 
spirit of romance, and is almost poetical in form. The author has undoubtedly been 
inspired by his admiration for the Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam to write this story of 
which Omar is the hero." — Troy Times. 

" Mr. Dole has built a delightful romance." — Chicago Chronicle. 

" It is a strong and vividly written story, full of the life and spirit of romance." — 
JVew Orleans Picayune, 



4- L. C. PAGE AND COMPANY S 



ManderS. a tale of Paris. By Elwyn BARR0N. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, illustrated, 350 pages $1.50 

" Bright descriptions of student life in Paris, sympathetic views of human frailty, 
and a dash of dramatic force, combine to form an attractive story. The book contains 
some very strong scenes, plenty of life and color, and a pleasant tinge of humor. 
... It has grip, picturesqueness, and vivacity." — The Speaker, London. 

"A study of deep human interest, in which pathos and humor both play their 
parts. The descriptions of life in the Quartier Latin are distinguished for their 
freshness and liveliness." — St. James Gazette, London. 

" A romance sweet as violets." — Town Topics, New York. 



In Old New York, a romance. By Wilson Bar- 
rett, author of " The Sign of the Cross," etc., and Elwyn 
Barron, author of " Manders." 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, illustrated, 350 pages ^1.50 
" A novel of great interest and vigor." — Philadelphia Inqtdrer. 

•' ' In Old New York ' is worthy of its distinguished authors." — Chicago Times- 
Herald. 

" Intensely interesting. It has an historical flavor that gives it a substantial value." 
— Boston Globe. 

The Golden Dog. a romance of Quebec. By 

William Kirby. . 

New authorized edition. 

Illustrated by J. W. Kennedy. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 620 pages . . . ^1.25 

" A powerful romance of love, intrigue, and adventure in the time of Louis XV. 
and Mme. de Pompadour, when the French colonies were making their great 
struggle to retain for an ungrateful court the fairest jewels in the colonial diadem of 
France." — New York Herald. 



The Knight of King's Guard, a romance of 

THE Days of the Black Prince. By Ewan Martin. 
Illustrated by Gilbert James. y 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . ^1^50 

An exceedingly well written romance, dealing with the romantic 
period chronicled =so admirably by Froissart. The scene is laid at a 
border castle between England and Scotland, the city of London, 
and on the French battle-fields of Cressy and Poitiers. Edward the 
Third, Queen Philippa, the Black Prince, Bertrand du Guesclin, are 
all historical characters, accurate reproductions of which give life 
and vitality to the romance. The character of the hero is especially 
well drawn. 



LIST OF FICTION 



The Making of a Saint. By w. somerset 

Maugham. 

Illustrated by Gilbert James. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 350 pages . . . ^1.50 

" An exceedingl}' strong story of original motive and design. . . . The scenes are 
imbued with a spirit of frankness . . . and in addition there is a strong dramatic 
flavor." — Philadelphia Press. 

" A sprightly tale abounding in adventures, and redolent of the spirit of mediaeval 
Italy." — Brookly7i Times. 

Friendship and Folly, a novel. By maria 

Louise Pool. 

Author of " Dally," " A Redbridge Neighborhood," " In a Dike 
Shanty," etc. 

Illustrated by J. W. Kennedy. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . ^1.25 

"The author handles her elements with skilful fingers — fingers that feel their 
way most truthfully among the actual emotions and occurrences of nineteenth 
century romance. Hers is a frank, sensitive touch, and the result is both complete 
and full of interest." — Boston Ideas. 

" The story will rank with the best previous work of this author." — Indianapolis 
News. 



The Rejuvenation of Miss Semaphore. 

A Farcical Novel. By Hal Godfrey. 

Illustrated by Etheldred B. Barry. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . ^1.25 

" A fanciful, laughable tale of two maiden sisters of uncertain age who are induced, 
by their natural longing for a return to youth and its blessings, to pay a large sum 
for a mystical water which possesses the value of setting backwards the hands of 
time. No more delightfully fresh and original book has appeared since ' Vice 
Versa' charmed an amused world. It is well written, drawii to the life, and full of 
the most enjoyable humor." — Bostoji Beacon. 



The Paths of the Prudent. By J. S. Fletcher. 
Author of " When Charles I. Was King," " Mistress Spitfire," etc. 
Illustrated by J. W. Kennedy. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . • ^1.50 

" The story has a curious fascination for the reader, and the theme and characters 
are handled with rare ability." — Scotsman. 

" Dorinthia is charming. The story is told with great humor." — Pall Mall 
Gazette. 

" An excellently well told story, and the reader's interest is perfectly sustained to 
the very end," — Punch. 



L. C. PAGE AND COMPANY S 



Cross Trails. By victor waite. 

Illustrated by J. W. Kennedy. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 450 pages . . . ^i-50 

" A Spanish- American novel of unusual interest, a brilliant, dashing, and stirring 
story, teeming with humanity and life. Mr. Waite is to be congratulated upon the 
strength with which he has drawn his characters." — Sa7i Francisco Chronicle. 

" Every page is enthralling." — Academy. 

" Full of strength and reality." — A theticEum. 

" The book is exceedingly powerful." — Glasgow Herald. 



BijI 



i the Dancer. By james blythe patton. 

Illustrated by Horace Van Rinth. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 350 pages . . . $1-50 

" A novel of Modem India. . . . The fortunes of the heroine, an Indian nautch- 
girl, are told with a vigor, pathos, and a wealth of poetic sympathy that makes the 
book admirable from first to last." — Detroit Free Press. 

" A remarkable book." — Bookman. 

" Powerful and fascinating." — Pall Mall Gazette. 

"A vivid picture of Indian life." — Academy, London. 



Drives and Puts, a book of golf stories. By 

Walter Camp and Lilian Brooks. 
Small i2mo, cloth decorative, illustrated, 250 pages . $1-25 

" It will be heartily relished by all readers, whether golfers or not." — Boston 
Ideas. 

"Decidedly the best goK stories I have read." — Milwatikee Journal. 

" Thoroughly entertaining and interesting in every page, and is gotten out with 
care and judgment that indicate rare taste in bookmaking." — Chicago Saturday 
Evening Herald. 



Via LUCiS. By Kassandra Vivaria. 
With portrait of the author. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 480 pages . 

"'Via Lucis ' is — we say it unhesitatingly — a striking and interesting produc- 
tion." — Londoji A thenceum. 

"Without doubt the most notable novel of the summer is this strong story of 
Italian life, so full of local color one can almost see the cool, shaded patios and the 
flame of the pomegranate blossom, and smell the perfume of the grapes growing on 
the hillsides. It is a story of deep and passionate heart interests, of fierce loves and 
fiercer hates, of undisciplined natures that work out their own bitter destiny of woe. 
There has hardly been a finer piece of portraiture than that of the child Arduina, — 
the child of a sickly and unloved mother and a cruel and vindictive father, — a mor- 
bid, queer, lonely little creature, who is left to grow up without love or training of 
any kind." — Ne'w Orleans Picay7i7ie. 



LIST OF FICTION 



" To Arms ! " being some passages from the Early 
Life of Allan Oliphant, Chirurgeon, Written by 
Himself, and now set forth for the First Time. 
By Andrew Balfour. 

Illustrated by F. W. Glover. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 575 pages . . . $i-50 

" A tale of ' Bonnie Tweedside,' and St. Dynans and Auld Reekie, — a fair picture 
of theicountry under misrule and usurpation and all kinds of vicissitudes. Allan Oli- 
phant is a great hero." — Chicago Times-Herald. 

" A recital of thrilling interest, told with unflagging vigor." — Globe. 

"An unusually excellent example of a semi-historic romance." — World. 

The River of Pearls ; or, the red spider, a 

Chinese Romance. By Rene de Pont-Jest. 

With sixty illustrations from original drawings by Felix Re- 
gam ey. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 300 pages . . . 1^1 -50 

Close acquaintance with the manners and customs of the Chinese 
has enabled the author to write a story which is instructive as well 
as interesting. The book, as a whole, shows the writer to be pos- 
sessed of a strong descriptive faculty, as well as keen insight into 
the characters of the people of whom he is writing. The plot is 
cleverly conceived and well worked out, and the story abounds with 
incidents of the most exciting and sensational character. Enjoy- 
ment of its perusal is increased by the pov/erf ul illustrations of Felix 
Regamey. 

The book may be read with profit by any one who washes to 
realize the actual condition of native life in China. 



Lally of the Brigade, a romance of the irish 

Brigade in France during the Time of Louis the 

Fourteenth. By L. McManus. 
Author of "The Silk of the Kine," "The Red Star," etc. 
Illustrated. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 250 pages . . • i?i-25 

The scene of this romance is partly at the siege of Crimona (held 
by the troops of Louis XIV.) by the Austrian forces under Prince 
Eugene. During the siege the famous Irish Brigade renders valiant 
service, and the hero — a dashing young Irishman — is in the thick 
of the fighting. He is also able to give efiicient service in unravel- 
ling a political intrigue, in which the love affairs of the hero and the 
heroine are interwoven. 



8 L. C. PAGE AND COMPANY S 

Frivolities, especially addressed to those who are 
Tired of being Serious. By Richard Marsh. 
Author of " Tom Ossington's Ghost," etc. 
Library i2mo, doth decorative, 340 pi^ges . . . ^1.50 

A dozen stories in an entirely new vein for Mr. Marsh. The 
humor is irresistible, and carries the reader on breathlessly from one 
laugh to another. The style, though appealing to a totally different 
side of complex human nature, is as strong and effective as the 
author's intense and dramatic work in "Tom Ossington's Ghost." 



Sons of Adversity, a romance of queen eliza- 

beth's Time. By L. Cope Cornford. 
Author of " Captain Jacobus," etc. 
Illustrated by J. W. Kennedy. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 325 pages . . . ^1.25 

" A tale of adventure on land and sea at the time when Protestant England and 
Catholic Spain were struggling for naval supremacy. Spanish conspiracies against 
the peace of good Queen Bess, a vivid description of the raise of the Spanish siege of 
Leyden by the combined Dutch and English forces, sea fights, the recovery of stolen 
treasure, are all skilfully woven elements in a plot of unusual strexigth.." — Pitisburg' 
Bulletin. 



The Count of Nideck. from the French of 
Erckmann-Chatrian, Translated and Adapted by 
Ralph Browning Fiske. 
Illustrated by Victor A. Searles. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 375 pages . . . i^i.25 

"'The Count of Nideck,' adapted from the French of Erckmann-Chatrian by 
Ralph Browning Fiske, is a most interesting tale, simply told, and moving with 
direct force to the end in view." — Minneapolis Times. 

" Rapid in movement, it abounds in dramatic incident, furnishes graphic descrip- 
tions of the locality, and is enlivened with a very pretty love story." — Troy Budget, j 



Muriel la ; or, le selve. By ouida. 

Illustrated by M. B. Prendergast. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 250 pages . . . ^1.25 

"Ouida's literary style is almost perfect in ' Muriella.' " — Chicago Times- 
Herald. 

" ' Muriella ' is an admirable example of the author's best work." — Brooklyn 
Times. 

" It dwells in the memory, and bears the dramatic force, tragic interest, and 
skilfulness of treatment that mark the work of Ouida when at her best." — Pittsbwrg 
Bulletin. 



LIST OF FICTION 



The Archbishop's Unguarded Moment. 

By Oscar Fay Adams. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, illustrated, 300 pages $1.25 

" A very captivating volume." — Evening Wisconsin. 
" Brimming over with humor." — Chicago Chronicle. 

" He who cares to pass a few hours in quiet enjoyment and subdued laughter will 
do well to become the possessor of this clever volume." — American, Philadelphia. 

The Works of Gabriel d^Annunzio, 

The Triumph of Death. 
The Intruder. 
The Maidens of the Rocks. 
The Child of Pleasure, 

Each, I vol., library i2mo, cloth decorative . . ^1.50 

" The writer of the greatest promise to-day in Italy, and perhaps one of the most 
unique figures in contemporary literature, is Gabriel d'Annunzio, the poet-novelist." 
— The Bookman. 

" This book is realistic. Some say that it is brutally so. But the realism is that 
of Flaubert and not of Zola. There is no plain speaking for the sake of plain speak- 
ing. Every detail is justified in the fact that it illuminates either the motives or the 
actions of the man and woman who here stand revealed. It is deadly true. The 
author holds the mirror up to nature, and the reader, as he sees his own experiences 
duplicated in passage after passage, has something of the same sensation as all of us 
know on the first reading of George Meredith's ' Egoist.' Reading these pages is 
like being out in the country on a dark night in a storm. Suddenly a flash of light- 
ning comes and every detail of your surroundings is revealed." — Review of the 
Trimnph of Death, in the New York Evening Sun. 

Ye Lyttle Salem Maide. a story of witch- 

CRAFT. By Pauline Bradford Mackie. 
With four full-page photogravures from drawings by E. W. D. 

Hamilton. 
Printed on deckle-edged paper, with gilt top, and bound in 

cloth decorative, 321 pages i^i.50 

A tale of the days of the reign of superstition in New England, 
and of a brave " lyttle maide " of Salem Town, whose faith and 
hope and unyielding adherence to her word of honor form the basis 
of a most attractive story. Several historical characters are intro- 
duced, including the Rev. Cotton Mather and Governor and Lady 
Phipps, and a very convincing picture is drawn of Puritan life during 
the latter part of the seventeenth century. An especial interest is 
added to the book by the illustrations, reproduced by the photo- 
gravure process from originals by E. W. D. Hamilton. 



lO L. C. PAGE AND COMPANY S 

Mademoiselle de Berny. a story of valley 

Forge. By Pauline Bradford Mackie. 
With five full-page photogravures from drawings by Frank T. 

Merrill. 
Printed on deckle-edged paper, with gilt top, and bound in 

cloth decorative, 272 pages ^1.50 

" The charm of ' Mademoiselle de Beray ' lies in its singular sweetness." — Boston 
Herald. 

" One of the very few choice American historical stories." — Boston Transcript. 

" Real romance . . . admirably written." — Washington Post. 

" A stirring romance, full of life and action from start to finish." — Toledo Daily 
Blade. 

" Of the rnany romances in which Washington is made to figure, this is one of the 
most fascinating, one of the best." — Boston Courier., 

Cnptain FraCaSSe. translated from the French 
OF Gautier. By Ellen Murray Beam. 
Illustrated by Victor A. Searles. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, 575 pages . . . J?5i.25 

" The story is one of the best in romantic fiction, for upon it Gautier lavished his 
rare knowledge of the twelfth century. — San Francisco Chronicle. 

" One of those rare stories in which vitality is abundant. — New York Herald. 

In Guiana Wilds, a study of two women. By 

James Rodway. 
Author of " In the Guiana Forest," etc. 
Library i2mo, cloth, decorative, illustrated, 250 pages $1.25 

" In Guiana Wilds " may be described as an ethnological 
romance. A typical young Scotchman becomes, by the force of 
circumstances, decivihzed, and mates with a native woman. 

It is a psychological study of great power and ability. 

The Qray House of the Quarries. By mary 

Harriott Norris. 

With a frontispiece etching by Edmund H. Garrett. 

8vo, cloth decorative, 500 pages . . . . . $1.50 

_ " The peculiar genre, for which, in a literarj' sense, all must acknowledge obliga- 
tion to the author of a new type, is the Dutch- American species. The church-goings, 
the courtings, the pleasures and sorrows of a primitive people, their lives and deaths, 
weddings, suicides, births, and burials, are Rembrandt and Rubens pictures on a 
fresh canvas." — Boston Transcript. 

"The fine ideal of womanhood in a person never once physically described will 
gratify the highess tone of the period, and is an ennobling conception." — Time and 
the Hour, Boston, 



LIST OF FICTION I I 

Vivian of Virginia, being the memoirs of our 

First Rebellion, by John Vivian, Esq., of Middle 
Plantation, Virginia. By Hulbert Fuller. 

With ten full-page illustrations by Frank T. Merrill. 

Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, deckle-edge 

paper, 375 pages ^1.50 

" A stirring and accurate account of the famous Bacon rebellion." — Los A ngeles 
Sunday Times. 

" We shall have to search far to find a better colonial story than this." — Denver 
Republican. 

"A well-conceived, well-plotted romance, full of life and adventure." — Chicago 
Inter-Ocean. 

" A story abounding in exciting incidents and well-told conversations." — Boston 
J'ournal. 

" Mr. Fuller will find a large circle of readers for his romance who will not be 
disappointed in their pleasant expectations." — Boston Transcript. 

" Instead of using histoiy as a backgi'ound for the exploits of the hero, the author 
used the hero to bring out histoiy and the interesting events of tliose early days in 
Virginia. The author has preserved the language and customs of the times admi- 
rably." — Philadelphia Telegram. 

A nan==at=ArniS. a romance of Italy m the days 

of Gian Galeazzo Visconti, the Great Viper. By 

Clinton Scollard. 
Author of " Skenandoa," etc. 
With six full-page illustrations and title-page by E. W. D. 

Hamilton. 
Library i2mo, cloth decorative, gilt top, deckle-edge 

paper, 360 pages j^i.50 

" The style is admirable, simple, direct, fluent, and sometimes eloquent ; and the 
story moves with rapidity from start to finish." — The Bookman. 

" A good story." — iV. V. Commercial A dvertiser. 

" It is a triumph in style." — Utica Herald. 



Bobbie McDuff. By Clinton Ross, author of" the 
Scarlet Coat," " Zuleika," etc. 
Illustrated by B. West Clinedinst. 
Large i6mo, cloth decorative, 260 pages . . . ^i.oo 

" ' Bobbie McDuff,' by Clinton Ross, is a healthy romance, tersely and vigorously 
told." — Louisville Courier-Jo7irnal. 

"It is full of mystery and as fascinating as a fairy tale." — San Francisco 
Chro7iicle . 

" It is a well-written story, full of surprises and abounding in vivid interest." — 
The Congregationalist , Bosttn. 



12 L. C. PAGE AND COMPANy's 

A Hypocritical Romance and other stories. 

By Caroline Ticknor. 
Illustrated by J. W. Kennedy. 
Large i6mo, cloth decorative $i.oo 

Miss Ticknor, well known as one of the most promising of the 
younger school of American writers, has never done better work 
than in the majority of these clever stories, written in a delightful 
comedy vein. 

A Mad Madonna and other stories. By l. 

Clarkson Whitelock. 
With eight half-tone illustrations. 

I vol., large i6mo, cloth decorative .... $i.oo 

A half dozen remarkable psychological stories, delicate in color 

and conception. Each of the six has a touch of the supernatural, a 

quick suggestion, a vivid intensity, and a dreamy realism that is 

matchless in its forceful execution. 

On the Point. a summer idyl. By Nathan Has- 
KELL Dole. 
Author of " Not Angels Quite," with dainty half-tone illustra- 
tions as chapter headings. 
I vol., large i6mo, cloth decorative . . . . ^i.oo 

A bright and clever story of a summer on the coast of Maine, 
fresh, breezy, and readable from the first to the last page. The 
narrative describes the summer outing of a Mr. Merrithew and his 
family. The characters are all honest, pleasant people, whom we 
are glad to know. We part from them with the same regret with 
which we leave a congenial party of friends. 

Cyrano de Bergerac. a heroic comedy from 

the French of Edward Rostand, as Accepted and 
Played by Richard Mansfield. Translated by How- 
ard Thayer Kingsbury. 

I vol., cloth decorative, with a photogravure frontis- 
piece ......... ^i.oo 

I vol., paper boards ....... .50 

The immediate and prolonged success of " Cyrano de Bergerac," 
in Paris, has been paralleled by Mr. Mansfield's success with an 
English version, dating from its first night at the Garden Theatre, 
New York, October 3, 1898. 

As a literary work, the original form of Rostand took high rank ; 
and the preference of Mr. Mansfield for Mr. Kingsbury's new trans- 
lation implies its superior merit. 




§ketch JHap 



OF 



9aris Exhibition 1900, 



